Dead Sea, long life

I have hit a low point in my life, the lowest I can go. I am at the Dead Sea, the lowest place on the planet. There is a method to bathing here, first rub on the mud and let dry. Then bob in the Sea, ten times saltier than any ocean. The water is so dense with salt, potassium, magnesium and several other minerals that you cannot possibly sink. In fact the health benifits are so amazing that Cleopatra used to frequent the Sea to gear up for afternoons with Mark Anthony. It is said to take five years off your age, think I'll dip several times! 

Motorcycle in Jordan

This is Mike and Ruby, two Canadians motorcycling through the Middle East on honeymoon. We met them at the Wadi Rhum Visitors Center. They were quite glad to have left Egypt and arrive in Jordan. It seems that the people were much friendlier in Jordan, I agree. Here is their website.

Cooking in Petra, the Rose City

Wandering around the amazing ruins of Petra was great but we also did something else that shouldn't be missed in the Rose City. We took a cooking class at the Petra Kitchen. I worked on the Tabbouleh and Sambousek b' jibn, cheese filled pastry. After cooking the meal is served and all enjoy. A great dining experience!

Traveling by Camel in Wadi Rhum

 

Wadi Rhum Campers

 

Bedouin Beat in Wadi Rhum

 

Back at Petra

Needless to say the bomb going off in Egypt just across the Red Sea from us in Aquaba was a little scary. The Jordainians however are as outraged as any. oday was a return to Petra and it was as amazing as I remembered it. The skies bright blue and mountains stunning. A truly remarkable place! In the morning we head to a bedouin camp so staying in communication impossible. Back with pictures in two days.

Amman Rat Pack

The press rat pack leaving Fakhr El- Din restaurant in Amman. Yes that is Ron Stern and Jon Haggen with two new members. 

Man on the Street in Amman

No Larry Parnass didn't find his twin on the streets of Amman. He is just hard at work as managing news editor for the Daily Hampshire Gazette.  

Meeting the Princess

Larry Parnass of the Daily Hampshire Gazette converses with Her Royal Highness Princess Basma Bint Tatal of Jordan. 

Grand Hyatt Grand View

This is the view from 323 at the Grand Hayatt in Amman. The call to prayers drifts through the air as the sun rises. 

Amman Market Interview

 

Jerash Birthday

Merissa Khurma from the Jordan Informatiom Bureau and my old freind Abraham at Jerash. It was Merissa's birthday today and she is with us in Jerash. 

Back in Amman

Arrived in Amman tonight and found the city bustling and growth evident everywhere. It was a long trip over though most likely caused by leaving from terminal 3 at JFK. It is the worst place to take a night flight from! The restaurants were closed by 8 PM and no connection possible to internet even from the Delta Lounge. Our flight on Royal Jordanian was jam packed with kids and in any case 11 hours felt very long.

After a great dinner at the Wild Café and a hot bath in room 323 at the Grand Hyatt everything looks much better. My room over looks mosques and minarets and hills of Amman and is really great. This was one of the hotels bombed in Nov but looks like new and very glad to be here.

Visit Jordan, Yes in a Heartbeat

Just as on my first visit to Jordan two years ago, it appears that Jordanian Security has recently uncovered a stash of weapons for use in Jordan. The uncovering lead to Jordan canceling a visit by Mahmoud a- Zahar, the Hamas-led Palestinian Authority’s number two man. I was a little off put two years ago. I am so glad that I went and would not even think about not doing so today. What I found on my first trip was some of the friendliest people on the planet and not just those involved in the tourism industry. Kids on the street repeatedly welcomed me to their country. If that wasn’t enough to convince me to return the amazing historical treasures surely would. Jordan is the most stabilizing force in the Arab world and deserves its place as a must be visited destination. There is no better time than today to fly to Amman, permission to board.

From Cincinnati to Petra

In 1812 a super traveler named Johan Ludwig Burkhardt entered a world that was lost to Europeans for centuries. He passed himself of as a Muslim from India and entered Petra in Jordan. Burkhardt spent years learning Arabic and the tenants of Islam to penetrate deep into the Arab world. After hearing from local Bedouins about a magical ancient city Burkhardt convinced them that he needed to make a sacrifice at the Tomb of the Prophet Aaron that was nearby. Thus he was the first modern traveler to enter Petra.

In 2004 I entered Petra on the same route and was blown away. I happened to be with some folks from the Cincinnati Art Museum who filmed a video in Petra for their opening of a Petra exhibit in Cincinnati. Take a five- minute tour yourself by clicking here. I was the last person on the video and as I listened to my comments, I reveled realizing that in a few short days I will return.

Free Zone, Cooperation Between Israel and Jordan

Got this info from my good buddy Keith W. Rabin President of KWR International Inc. today. It is about the first Israeli movie production shot in cooperation with the Jordanian Royal Film Commission, the first Israeli fiction film made in an Arab country. Keith always has the coolest international news!

The film stars Natalie Portman and shot by Amos Gitai an Israeli. The film focuses on the lives of Israeli, American and Palestinian females and the communal histories of these characters. Free Zone the movie will be in NYC when I land in Amman, claps for all involved.

Here is a quote from an interview with Amos Gitai:
I didn't want to show the exotic Jordan of camels in Petra and beautiful sunsets. I wanted to show Jordan through its vitality, through the pulse of life, through the highways, the busy streets of Amman.

On this trip I spend more time in Amman so I definitely will want to catch Free Zone on my return.

The Eagle Flies

Got a great afternoon call today from Michael J. Marnell publisher of the Lincoln Eagle Paper. “The Eagle flies high”, he said. His enthusiasm was catchy as he recounted the success of the paper’s first edition. I would normally have been nervous hearing words like twice as many and next edition. From Michael I wasn’t, he has been in the newspaper game for a long time. He is in fact an ancestor of the publisher of the once mighty Brooklyn Daily Eagle.

What did surprise us both was the number of email comments coming from out of NYC. It seems that more New Yorkers are spending weekends here in the Hudson Valley and are enjoying the paper. Even better for me is walking around cities and towns in the area and hearing about my column. Keep flying Eagle!

Tony Wheeler Blogs

Even Tony Wheeler is a blogger. It should be no surprise that the co founder of Lonely Planet is still cutting edge. Actually he started doing it in 1994 while cruising with the Wheeler Clan in a 59 Caddy from San Francisco to Boston. It can be read at Coast to Coast and the fact that it is 11 years old makes it interesting. Some of his others are Oman in Feb. 2005 and Singapore to Shanghai in April 2005. This is a bloke I would love to have several beers with and not just so I could blog about it .

Israel Celebrates Fifty Eight Years

It takes a lot time to attend travel events given in New York City, but I find it so useful in the connections made. The opportunity to meet face to face hands down beats email relationships. It is a way to connect to the travel industry and keep informed; also the events are pretty darn nice!

I will be attending a reception to celebrate Israel’s 58th Anniversary of Independence at the Ballroom of the Grand Hyatt soon. Hosting the event is Ambassador Dan Gillerman, Permanent Representative of Israel to the United Nations and Ambassador Arye Mekel the Consul General of Israel in NY. His lovely wife Ruth Mekel will also host. Time to get my one suit dry cleaned.

Travel PR Firms, Writers Be Fair

I often read or listen to travel writers slam PR Firms and I have to wonder why. From my seat I would think they have far more to complain about. I cannot count the times that I have never read anything written or broadcast by some that take up the space on a trip. Do they not realize that these firms are hired by destinations to get coverage? Travel is a business and as a freelancer needs outlets, firms need coverage. That is how their employees get paid, don’t they also deserve to survive in this business. I’m not talking about an article getting killed or dropped, but total unfair practice.

In general I have met some wonderful people working hard at their jobs promoting places and in general great places. I totally understand policies by some publications to not allow media rates or press trips. The final decision is up to the writer, learn what is accepted where and if it works for you, it is part of your job. However you feel about travel writing is a personal choice, just do your job and write.

Some great PR Firms I have dealt with have great reputations such as Myraid Marketing, Geoffrey Weill Assoc. and Georgia Turner Group. There are many others but realize that their survival is ours.

Dillo's B Bash

While I am on the road alot I still try to catch up with the good times at home. This occasion was one of my oldest friends big Five-O -Bash. Over the years we have been caught in many pictures. This one says it all on Mike Dillon's bib, Over the Hill. Yes that is a helmet on his head, we could have used them in the old days! 

Palms Bling, Cannot Even Sing

I got no bling and I sure can’t sing or shake my thing, but for some bucks I can pretend to have the ability to do all that and more. The Palms, a Maloof Casino Resort may be the ticket to the most hedonistic stay in the world. The specialty suites cover the rainbow of useless accoutrements. In most there is metal show showers, if I show anything I could ruin the party. All I need for the Erotic Suite is to match the leather and metal in attire and I am ultra sexy. Of course that maybe only if I can afford the $$ for the suite, the stripper pole I most likely cannot afford to staff.

I certainly would like to see the Celebrity Suite with its massive TV’s and full bars, bet I can pick up friends easy if I mention that it is mine for the night. I just might not like my new friends. To show off my fading athletic skills I would chose the Hardwood Suite with its indoor basketball court, let me win or you’re out! Funny but I remember when having a bathrobe in my room was a sure sign of climbing up from a hostel. Sure do remember great conversations when all that was available was a bunkbed.

Jordanian Royalty

My final itinerary for Jordan arrived today and has some very special highlights on it. A top is a chance to meet with HRH Princess Basma, the King’s sister. For over thirty years this remarkable woman has worked ceaselessly on gender equality and children’s issues. With her will be members of the Jordanian National Commission for Women. This Princess has an outstanding resume and it will be a pleasure to meet her in person.

For a run down on HRH Basma click here.

Canada's Loch Ness Monster

Heading down NY Route 87 south towards home today we passed many exits heading to Lake Champlain. The Champlian always makes me think about Bessie, America’s answer to the Loch Ness Monster. Since I was leaving Canada I remembered once reading about a Canadian version called Ogopogo, a similar creature hanging in Okanagan Lake. The Native Salish People called it the “Devil of the Lake” or N’ha-a-itk.

The monster’s name was changed to Ogopogo in 1942 and has since pick up a friendlier interpretation. It now appears in postcards and tee shirts and has sparked a mini tourist zone. Wish all my monsters could take on a friendlier interpretation.

Our Canadian Neighbors in Quebec

It occurred to us at breakfast this morning that over the course of the last six days we haven’t met many Americans, just one actually. Canada at one point was a big destination for those looking to stretch their bucks and get away. It was fine even with the dollars approaching equality, sitting in restaurants and listening to French, driving back roads that provided beautiful scenery. Best yet was the friendly Canadians that shared a word, smile or nod. I can kind of equate it with my relationship with my neighbors at home. We get along well yet are not overly intrusive with each other. We always enjoy visiting and when we do it is always a great time. That is how I feel about Canada.

Charlevoix was truly a great place to visit and I will again. Its beauty and bounty of nature, villages and great hotels assure that. It just maybe time to check in with the neighbors up north, you will be glad you did!

Montreal and Catherine's Hermitages

Back in Montreal and miles from the peace and quiet of Charlevoix, cars race by and honking disturbs the senses. Still I love this city and its unique feel and it is a great place for Lil and I to spend our last night on the road. We are used to traveling together but it is always sad to know that in a week I will leave her and head to Jordan.

One of my favorite places to go in Montreal is the Museum of Fine Arts and now is a great time to visit. Over 200 items collected by Catherine the Great of Russia and part of the Hermitage Museum are on display. Most amusing are some of Cathy’s Rules:

Catherine’s Hermitages
Did you know that, in the time of Catherine the Great, the word "hermitage" referred to the private receptions that the empress gave in her apartments of the Winter Palace in Saint Petersburg? She even drew up a code of behaviour much like that of an Enlightenment salon. Guests who failed to respect them might be fined or even excluded. At her death, the building she added to the Winter Palace contained close to 4,000 paintings, 38,000 books and 10,000 each of drawings and antique gems, not to mention countless prints, a theatre built by Quarenghi, an exact replica of her adored Raphael’s Loggia and a cabinet of natural history.
RULES FOR THE BEHAVIOUR OF ALL THOSE ENTERING THESE DOORS
1All ranks shall be left outside the doors, similarly hats, and particularly swords.
2Orders of precedence and haughtiness, and anything of such like which might result from them, shall be left at the doors.
3Be merry, but neither spoil nor break anything, nor indeed gnaw at anything.
4Be seated, stand or walk as it best pleases you, regardless of others.
5Speak with moderation and not too loudly, so that others present have not an earache or headache.
6Argue without anger or passion.
7Do not sigh or yawn, neither bore nor fatigue others.
8Agree to partake of any innocent entertainment suggested by others.
9Eat well of good things, but drink with moderation so that each should be able always to find his legs on leaving these doors.
10All disputes must stay behind closed doors; and what goes in one ear should go out the other before departing through the doors.
If any shall infringe the above, on the evidence of two witnesses, for any crime each guilty party shall drink a glass of cold water, ladies not excepted, and read a page from the Telemachida out loud.
Who infringes three points on one evening shall be sentenced to learn three lines from the Telemachida by heart.
If any shall infringe the tenth point, he shall no longer be permitted entry.

Farewell Charlevoix

 

RBC Bank Commercial

Leaving Charlevoix today and back to Montreal for a night. While packing a great commercial came on the CBC channel. It shows a young back packer type rolling, dodging and running down the streets of Pamplona Spain. Old residents are watching in amusement. Tagline, the bulls ran five days ago, get a RBC Visa and get there in time, No Blackout Dates!

Isle- aux- Coudres, Island Bound

While waiting for the ferry to the Isle -aux- Coudres we came upon this mammouth ship stranded. The St. Lawrence's ebb and flow reflect lifes comings and goings. The island's name was given to it by Jacque Cartier in 1535 because of the hazelnut trees called "couldres" on it. Even today the islanders have a different style than found on mainland. The cost of the ferry is zero, nice day trip and glimpse into Charlevoix's many facets.

Cannot Lose at Casino de Charlevoix

It is a win, win situation playing at the Casino de Charlevoix, even though I am a bit lighter in chips. Playing black jack with the mighty St. Lawrence in view has a calming effect. The casino itself is soothingly designed and laid out. The dealers all friendly and the customers equally so, something not found in mega gambling resort towns. This one feels like what I wish more casinos did, a place to be entertained and play for fun and sport. No knuckle rubbing, strained brows and sad faces, but people enjoying a good time, even with a few chips lost.

Beluga Bonanza at Manoir Richelieu Fairmont

We have been laughing lately about the fact that the shades are drawn every night on our return from the outdoor saltwater hot tub to the Suite Des Artiste. As I open the first set to see the sunset I caught a flash of white out on the St. Lawrence, then another. It was a Beluga bonanza. We watched six of them breach repeatedly as they passed the Le Manoir Richelieu here in La Malbaie, Canada. It was just breathtaking especially after reading how the hotel has an adopt a whale program going as I posted last night.

This part of Canada called Charlevoix has a very special feel and all day we drove along the coast soaking up spectacular scenery and delicious food. It is been a place that belongs on my list of must be seen and experienced. The pod swimming by is just one reason, I found many other reasons today.

Beluga Whale and Fairmont Sale

I love when the corporate world adopts an environmentally sound idea and this one is a whale of a good tale. A special Adopt a Beluga program is in effect at the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu here in La Malbaie Canada. The Hotel has a Green Committee and Pearl the Beluga Whale is the key. Key in the adopt stay program and stay in one of the prettiest places in the world. Monies will go to the St. Lawrence National Institute of Ecotoxicology. (SLINE) They are concerned with aquatic and marine systems. Save the Pearl!

Lil in the Suite Des Artiste at Le Manoir Richelieu

 

Boat on St. Lawrence

We can across this old reminder of when ships were the main form of transportation on the St Lawrence. This on was near the town of Baie- Saint-Paul, an artist community. They are scattered here, there and everywhere. 

Lower Quebec City

 

Musee De L' Amerique Francaise

It is a huge segment of North American population that has roots in the French coming to the new world. The history of that movment is well covered in the Musee De L' Amerique. The French roots date back to 1608 and have taken well here in Quebec. Both language and culinery habits well display that fact. Here people relish meals and conversation in equal measure. It is often said however that visitors from Paris sometimes have difficulty understanding the Canadian version of French. It has some words dating back to the 18th century and others developed far from French soil. The Musee's heart is the Seminaire De Quebec the first french language university in 1852. However since 1663 the Seminaire has held tight to a French way of life. Names from the past such as Hebert and Laval are still well represented. It all adds up to feeling a world away from New York.

View From 2607 Loews Quebec City

 

Breaching The Quebec City Walls

Shades of France stand out no stronger anywhere in North America than here in Quebec City. I am always happy strolling small streets and sitting in cafes and QC is the perfect place to do that. English is spoken but less than Montreal. Room 2607 at again another Loews is stunning and we are on the top floor. The St. Lawrence opens up here and we head up the north side of it in the morning, Charlevoix bound!

Beer Quebec Style

 

Quebec Spring Cafe

  

Sex with Alec Baldwin

Got this one from the Montreal Gazette and no matter where you stand politically its funny. Elle Magazine asked Alec Baldwin if he would rather sleep with Senator Dianne Feinstein or conservative pundit Anne Coulter? His pick was the Senator because he would have to jump out a window if it was Coulter. When the quote was bounced off Coulter her reply was, “ That’s the only reason I can think of for wanting to have sex with Alec Baldwin”. Point and match to Coulter!

Taras Grescoe Canada's Foodie

Here in Canada the travel section of the section of the Globe and Mail comes out on Saturday. I have always enjoyed this paper and its travel articles. The feature today was by Taras Grescoe and called Spain’s Foodie Frontier. It was worth clipping. Grescoe included info such as; Per Capita the city of Donostia boasts more Michelin stars than anywhere else in the world. One for every 12,000 inhabitants compared with one for every 160,000 in New York.

I totally enjoyed Grescoe’s book The Devils Picnic recently and highly recommend it. Tim Leffel has a review on Perceptive Travel. His review is as interesting as the book.

Old Montreal

The Old City is my favorite part of Montreal, it truly has a European feel. At one time it was in total decline but is now under going a rebirth. 

Montreal's Restaurants

Food is big here in Montreal, all kinds. In the Old City there are plenty of small boucheries serving smoked meats and creamy soups. Prices however are not as cheap as last summer. The US dollar isn't packing the same punch here as it used to! 

Loews Hotels gets Great Review in Montreal

I have often bitched about frequent members programs, especially hotels. One that never gets it wrong or if they do works on getting it right is Loews. Just for joining you are sent a small bottle of wine and nuts, or other choices when you check in on every stay. Being gold gets you up grades on check in. I am a sucker for robes and am sitting in mine now! Their price in comparision here in Montreal is good. Try getting a big room with spa bath in NYC for the same price as a Holiday Inn in Kingston NY. I still like roughing it but I am old enough to enjoy creature comforts, especially when traveling with a known poet! On check in we found that our connect to web was kaput, soon enough it was fixed with no charge for use. This is such an improvement of so sorry sir. Canada though in general thus far is not the bargain it was not long ago. Checking into a Leows in Quebec City tomorrow, hope I can count on their standards remaining as well as I have always encountered.

Charlevoix Canada

Finally get to travel with my best travel mate, my wife. We are bound for Montreal, Quebec City and a new area for me the Charlevoix Area. This region was made a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1988. It lies on the St. Lawrence and is relatively un- traveled by many from the US. Key to the trip is the Coastal Drive and the Route des Saveurs (flavor trail) with special cheeses and local dishes. We will be spending some nights at the Manoir Richelieu that reopened in 1999 after a 92 million dollar face-lift. I suspect that the Casino de Charlevoix will be a frequent stop; it is on the hotel grounds. I at least will be lucky in love.

Living with a Poet

We got some great news at the homestead today, although everyday living with a poet makes me smile. Lilly has been published many times before but she always seems
amazed that poets get published. She got a book offer today--that makes me so very proud; her poems have been her own world for so many years.

She has shared them with me and I thought they should be shared with others. At first she didn’t quite believe that it was possible. I assured her that if someone like myself, a poem illiterate, loved them, others would. I have been consistently right and now she knows, besides spending hours teaching and caring, her work is also cared for. Call me just St. John, husband of the wonderful poet, Lisa C St. John.

Become a Travel Agent Scam

It seems to be returning, the, “become a travel agent in a week”, thing. Promises of free or 90% off your travel is their key sales pitch. Yes you can join us as an associate and make money and travel mantra that permeated the travel scene in the 90’s was in my spam box today twice. What they should say is sell our packages to your friends and we will only charge you $495.

Here is a direct quote from one:

Certification, Training & Licensing Cost – If you’re selected to be a Director with ***. You will need to pay for your initial training, licensing as a travel professional with the State, and certification costs. This cost is $495.00, and includes all your training materials, and your initial 5 day/4 night trip to Orlando, Florida. This includes, hotel, most meals, trip to our headquarters, training, and a side trip to Disney. (Airfare is not included). DVI’s Director Selection department will send you more details if you are selected.

When I owned a travel agency we used to laugh about the brazen rip- off that some companies did. Attorney General Offices from just about every state in the US had complaints and problems with the Travel Agent Scam! Far better to pick up a pen and write!

Canadian Border Crossing, Send in the Minutemen

Holy border Batman, what are we going to do? Forget all those coming across the border down in Mexico; we got a real problem with our Northern neighbors. It seem that the Haskell Free Library and Opera House is caught smack dab in the middle, half in Canada and half in the US in Derby VT and Rock Island Canada In fact the line runs right through the Kenneth Baldwin International Reading Room. Wonder if Kenneth was related to Alec? It has me worried that the librarian checking out books could be of either nationality! I can only hope the Minutemen have set up their folding lawn chairs in the library and are packing heat. Fortunately the board has four Americans and only three Canadians. I think its time for a background check on the deceased Carlos Haskell and his Canadian wife who left the building to both countries, after all his first name was Carlos!

Mexico Rental, Villa Cheap

Working in the yard all weekend was great but it made me think of places rented complete with yard staff. Tim Leffel’s blog happened to deal with just such travel options as renting when abroad. I also have always felt it was a great option. I remember fondly renting places for a week where my son and his friend could ramble on their own picking up bits of Spanish. I could walk to markets and had a kitchen to work in, and a manicured yard to live a bit of colonial lifestyle. We found that the lady that came to clean offered great advice to really get into local happenings. Two places that come to mind right off are San Miguel and Guanejuato Mexico. The place in San had an amazing roof top view with enclosed garden and in Guanejuato it was an 18th century villa. For the price of 3 nights in NYC I had a home away from home. Tim by the way has a beach house in Mexico available for rent. For now I guess I’ll go back to work in the yard!