Horse Fever in Budapest, Magyar Magic

Much like the palio in Sienna, Italy there was a great race around Hero’s Square this afternoon, just down the road from my MaMaison Andrassy Hotel headquarters. The Hungarians have a long time reputation for equestrian skill, dating from the Magyar culture. The riders were dressed in Hussar-style uniforms and stunning to watch! The National Gallop Festival has drawn crowds from all over Hungary, the perfect afternoon for the horsy set, mount up.

Show and a Dinner Cruise in Budapest

I powered my day through a tour of Budapest; always take the ground running no naps. This evening I gathered some needed energy by watching the Hungarian State Folk Ensemble dancers whirl across the stage accompanied by musicians playing rousing folk tunes. Many of the dances go back in time and tell stories. The ornate theater was a step back in time and all in all a great show. After we powered down with a dinner cruise on the Danube River, famished. The light of Budapest’s plethora of historical buildings sparkled and was the perfect way to unwind. After a full day my comfy bed at the MaMaison Andrassy Hotel was heaven.

Back in Budapest, Home at the Andrassy Hotel

It was a pleasant flight to Budapest and American Airlines Business Class updates are great, though again after dinner I fell asleep on the flattened seat. The MaMaison Hotel Andrassy is also guaranteed to please, a five star deluxe located on the Paris like boulevard of the same name. All around it are embassies and green leafy streets and two blocks away is the Heroes Square. During the Communist years the building served as a “Foreign Affairs Hotel” housing guests such as Yeltsin, Brezhnev and Gagarin. Before that it was a home for Jewish orphans and its children were protected by an anti Nazi police battalion, Red Cross and Raoul Wallenberg. It has a special vibe and will make the perfect base in Budapest.

Warsaw Bound, Then Home to Ulster County

It has been a great time at home and the weather just perfect, warm days and chilly nights. We spent the long weekend planting and painting, the old barn needed some care! I went to a great party at the Gogg's redone home this weekend where the usual questions pop up as they do when people want to know what drives me to leave this beautiful place I call home. I think I really appreciate Ulster County because I am away so much. I see so many fantastic places and that keeps me thinking. While painting the barn I will think about the French country side or while mowing I remember the smell of spices in Morocco. Besides I told one friend is there any place better to go to a Chopin Vodka Tasting then Warsaw? The weather in beautiful Budapest will be warm and the city filled with plantings, then I get to return home, that is a perfect place to end up. Memories while mowing.

Kingston Lighthouse, Hudson River

Esopus Natives and Foreign Settlers

This statue of a Native American is about all that remains of those who lived in my area, except for the names of places nearby my home in Ulster County. Esopus is the creek that is just down the street and that is what the local tribes were called. I found a book today amongst those that I got when my dad passed away, History of Ulster County Under the Dutch, by Van Buren, published 1923. That was the year my dad was born.

I read a passage today about the first battle between the natives and the Dutch while sitting on the deck. Some Native Americans after working for an early settler were paid in Brandy after working the fields. They had a little party and hooted a bit to loud. Some settlers went out and shot some of them, it was in on Sept. 20,1659. A war between the settlers and Native Americans broke out soon after. The book points out native villages that were very near my home, exploration is in order.

Going to a New Country, Poland

Prophetically I mentioned in yesterday’s blog that invites pop up and you never really know where you will be a few days down the road. I always have a bag on the bedroom floor ready to go. Well thanks to the Jetster a.k.a. Johnny Jet I will be in Budapest and then Warsaw, Poland. I have hade the privilege of traveling with JJ several times over the years and the guy is a gentlemen. My thoughts go out to JJ’s brother who had to cancel due to medical reasons and wish him speedy recovery.

On this trip I will be staying in two hotels from the MaMaison Group a company that has several properties in what is some times called, “New Europe”. The former Eastern European countries are still a bargain compared to the,”Old Europe”, where a cup of coffee can run around ten bucks. I have read about MaMaison recently and after checking out their site, I am thrilled to experience the five star bastions of civilized living. The Chopin Vodka tasting also fits me well, at least I now know where I will be next week.

Need a Maine Coast Rental

It is a fear all travel writers have when they crow about a secret spot, it gets filled up. I recently went to check on a rental on the Maine Coast I wrote about a while back. No room at the Cozy Cottage on Cozy Cove this year and I guess I can take some of the blame. I wrote an article about my week there and raved on GoNOMAD. The piece got reprinted in Preview, Massachusetts in April and it was a full glossy with picture on the cover, great for the ego bad for the traveler. I have begun my search for another great rental that I can rave about and if I am smart and love it I will book it right away. It is just hard when I never really know where I will go and when, part of the lifestyle of travel writing. One day you think you’ll be home next day emails with invites come in. If you happen to have a rental drop a comment, I long to return to Maine and its fantastic coast!

Sampo

Blogging Travel Notes

I use this blog often and for several reasons. I was recently asked if I take notes while on a trip. I do use a digital recorder mostly; even I have trouble reading my scratchy scribbles. I however try to blog every night, to be honest I often have to go back to see when and where I was a given time. Going back also gives me a feel for just what I though was important and a chance to check out the photos I liked. My day ends when my blog is finished and emails answered. I am working on my Finnish Lapland piece here at home and just went through my pictures of my trip on the ice breaker Sampo and putting on a survivor’s suit for a dip in the ice clogged, Sea of Bothnia. That I will always remember!

Smiling Faces in Kenya

Ulster County Press and the Ulster County Lodging Coalition

After a few months on the road it is good to be home and catch up with local happenings. I picked up the Ulster County Press today and enjoyed reading it; it covers things that are often overlooked. The top headline of this edition was about local lodging owners forming a lobby group. I cheer the news and wish them well. I have been to 9 countries in the last few months and worked with many local and national tourism boards, tourism is a known factor in improving business, not just for the lodging but even to a coffee shop or small farm stand. In the US there is no national tourism board; it is done by states and locally. I understand that locally money is hard to come by for the purpose of encouraging visitors. I salute those such as David O’ Halloran owner of the Pinegrove Ranch and Jacquelyn Appledorn, general manager of the Mohonk Mountain House for taking matters into their own hands. In fact there has been a Discover America Partnership for a few years who promotes travel from abroad to the US, on the board is Bill Marriott and Jonathan Tisch as well as many others who understand the importance of tourist dollars. Tourism accounting for $443 million and 10,000 jobs in Ulster is no laughing matter, think of the gas tanks filled! Great article Ulster County Press and Robert Ford.

Thanks LTU for the Space and a Chance to Sleep

Checking in on LTU’s JFK flight was so very pleasant, unlike just over a week ago in NYC. I went to the Business Class line as I was told to do and asked if my upgrade was available. The woman smiled as she said, “certainly”. Back in NYC the check in staff didn’t even bother to check, a simple no was all I could get. The Business class over was very empty. It is funny because it shows the difference between a fantastic airport and one that is at best difficult.

Most readers will probably think that we writers feel important when upgraded. The fact is I rarely watch a movie on the personal video or quaff champagne; I have frequently missed the meal. It is all about room to sleep. After flying to far flung destinations in the last two months, space is precious. I have had a two day delay on the way to Finland with a 10 hour lay over, nine on my flight to Kenya in the treacherous Heathrow Airport.

I would always prefer coach with some empty seats next to me. I was talking with a business man yesterday in the lounge in Düsseldorf and we discussed the business class situation. On his last few flights he has seen very empty business class sections, once being the only passenger up front. With the economy going as it is the coach tickets are far easier to sell, therefore move valuable to the airlines. Personally all I want to do in the air is sleep, it is the one difficult part about travel writing, and there is always a lack of it!

Lebowski in Hamburg

This is for my nephew Drew Gilligan, a true Lebowski fan.

Dusseldorf Airport

GoNOMAD's Senior Travel Editor, Traveling Home

I am in perfect airport position back here in Düsseldorf, thanks to the best airport hotel I have ever stayed in. When I checked in back at the Düsseldorf, Maritim I found a letter from the manager telling me to enjoy the executive floor and feel free to make the mini bar my own. I was back in room 757 and rapidly fell into my routine, sauna, hot bath and blogging. First though I wondered through the perfect Düsseldorf Airport, tonight I may just walk the few feet across and dine there, it is after all the best airport I’ve seen over the last few weeks.

I like to joke and on any given travel day say, “another day in the office”. It has been an amazing spring and I am so grateful! In the last few weeks I have traveled by snowmobile in Lapland, gone on safari in Kenya, skied the French Alps, toured Düsseldorf and Hamburg. The flight delays, mugging and great friends met have exceeded any expectations. I wasn’t sure if having my face carved up due to skin cancer had anything to do with my ambitious undertaking but I can assure you that sitting still isn’t in my makeup. I am looking forward to getting down to my real home office and putting it all down. I miss you Lil and thanks for understanding, Max the stories will flow. Memories make the man, lucky for me I just made some new ones .

St. Georg, My Hamburg Hood

While rolling on steel wheels back to Düsseldorf I though a lot about Hamburg and my temp neighborhood. I got the answers I needed from the Hamburg Tourism brochure and its info about the St Georg area. This is verbatim, “ Steindamm and Hansaplatz, with a drug scene , numerous Turkish shops and a large mosque.” It further tells about the sex scene and states there is scope enough here for all manner of lifestyles. True enough and I must say I really kind of liked being in such a diverse local area. It certainly was a long way from my home in Cottekill. I stopped at the same place for Turkish coffee every day and actually got to know the owner well. The working girls did indeed nod after a few days and knew I wasn’t cruising any place but back to the St. Raphael Hotel. I ate dinner several times near the Bahnhof and found it good and the people watching great. Hamburg is like a bad little child that you love. I am sure spanking fits in the hood some how!

Reeperbahn and the Beatles

Thanks to a website I found done by a Beatles fan I cruised the Reeperbahn before boarding my train this morning. I went past several of the sites listed in the quiet of morning; I could almost feel the vibes. I stood in front of the Top Ten Club where the boys played and actually lived in the attic for a bit. It was from there that George was deported. It occurred to me that it would only have been a city like Hamburg that would have given the Silver Beatles a break. Everyone gets a break in Hamburg! http://webs.wichita.edu/mschneegurt/hamburg/hamburg.html

Fusion In Hamburg, Top Asian

Olaf Niemeir is a genius with food, especially Asian food, his passion. I had an amazing meal at Fusion at the Side Hotel last night. Platters of delicious dishes came out of the kitchen and every morsel fantastic. Olaf spent 20 years cooking in Asia and it shows. All ingredients are natural and every bite burst with flavor, one of the best meals I’ve had in a very long time!

The Hamburg Station and the Working Girls

I headed to the Baunhof to reserve my seat on the 2:45 train to Dusseldorf tomorrow and of course there wasn't room even with my fancy 1stKlasse pass. Thoughts of a missed flight on Friday freaked me, but the clerk informed me that I could get on the 9:46 instead. It took me no time to say ja danke. I have passed through this station about 100 times over the last few days. So much so that I am getting greetings from the working girls that work just down the street from the station and near my hotel. No more pssst, mien Herr. They know it its just the American who passes frequently with his eyes straight ahead.

Hamburg Harbor, 50 Million Tons

I took a turn around the Hamburg Harbor yesterday on the Maritime Circle Line and found it fascinating. The goods shipped from the containers via Hamburg are amazing. The cranes and ships are massive in size and strangely picturesque.

Over 50 Million tons of goods pass through every year.

Jumped for a Dumpster

I was jumped tonight and most surprised, I was taking this picture of a graffiti dumpster when a few seconds later was pinned against a wall. The two in the distance in this photo thought I was taking their picture. I took one down then there were more hands on me and other guys. I really like my spot at the Best Western St. Raphael and my big room, even its location near the Haupt-bahnhof (train station) and access to the city. “Why did you take our picture”? One guy yelled. I thought quickly and told them that they should look at my digital pictures; I was simply intrigued by the dumpster. They did, one more punch and they were gone. I thought about all the photos I have taken and wondered why it would be one of a dumpster that almost got me dumped.

Ballin Stadt, Hamburg's Ellis Island

I spent the morning cruising the amazing Hamburg Harbor heading by boat to one amazing place, the Ballin Stadt, the place where 5 million people departed Germany looking for a better life. We in the US tend to think only of the emigrants plight from Ellis Island on, there was so much more involved. Ballin Stadt explains it all and very well, think of an Ellis Island in reverse. The people were housed and paper work dealt with, no easy task. People from Eastern Europe often went to America via Hamburg and this museum covers the saga so very well! I myself am looking for answers as my Mom's father most likely came through here.

Beatles and the First Gig in Hamburg

I was on my way to visit with Kathrin Beulshausen who works for the high design hotel East in the St Pauli section of Hamburg when I ran into some Beatles info. There was a small little ramshackle place called Indra with a sign stating the Beatles played there on Aug. 17 1960 and that was their first engagement and started their career. A tour bus was parked outside and the blinds drawn tight, perhaps some new super stars in the making?

Hamburg and the Sea

I arrived in Hamburg and hit the streets running, even though it is a holiday here. It was great to see Hamburgers enjoy a day off and I happened upon the Hafenfest der Welt. The harbor was filled with ships and a carnival atmosphere prevails, it’s a great time to visit this city that has an eye to the water, more bridges than Amsterdam, London and Venice combined. I walked miles just getting my bearings for my appointments in the morning. I am going to love this city!

Working Girl, St Pauli Hamburg

Leaving Dusseldorf and Rolling to Hamburg

I am up early and writing this as the sun also rises. I am leaving Dusseldorf today, a city that has been really great to explore. From centuries past to the modern skyline of today, Dusseldorf really has a lot to offer and I am actually looking forward to my return in a few days.

I will hit the rails today and head to Hamburg, from all accounts another thriving city with plenty to do. It was in Hamburg at the Star Club where the Beatles cut their teeth playing clubs. Rolling on!

Neanderthal in Germany

Just in case you want to know what a marathon of travel can do to you check out the top picture. We went to a fantastic museum this morning near Dusseldorf that is the Neanderthal Museum. It was in this gorge that in 1829 miners found bones of our ancestors. It was a fascinating place to go way back in time, before jet lag and politics took a toll.

A Perfect Dusseldorf Afternoon

After a morning of exploring the Aldstadt of Düsseldorf we meet as a group to see some of the surrounding countryside. The first stop is the Scholoss (castle) of Benrath a magnificent palace with stunning grounds. It is however the waffle with ice cream and cherry topping that catches all of our attention. The Schlosscafe is located and set amidst gardens and the moat. Swans cruise by and the bright sun warms up a perfect afternoon.

Next up is the small and picture perfect town of Kaisersworth on the Rhine River. It is glow time and we strolled through the town and down a country road to a beer garden. A few rounds of sparkling white wine on the banks of the river loosens tongues and laughter. Soon we head to the porch for a dinner of local dishes. Next thing we know it is 11 P.M. and sleep is on our agenda, a perfect Düsseldorf day is done.

UNWTO and Kenya's Tourism

It seems strange to be thinking about Kenya while sitting in a super room at the Maritim Hotel in Düsseldorf but sometimes past trips come back to haunt you. I was checking out the web this morning when I came upon a new release about the UNWTO Secretary - General Francesco Frangialli’s recent visit to Kenya. He stated that Kenya is of need of help and that tourism is so very important to the country and its citizens, not to mention the region. We at GoNOMAD went on our own fact finding mission and couldn’t have been more pleased to see the steps Kenya’s Tourism Board is taking to save the tourism industry there. The UNWTO is going to help with tech and marketing assistance via its alliance with Microsoft. Not a moment to soon!

Eating in Dusseldorf, Under Frank Gehry Buildings

How cool can life be when you are eating at a table of the Meerbar right underneath some Gehry designed buildings and the Rhine River rolls next to you. The Meerbar was filled with the,” Beautiful People”, of Düsseldorf. Food and wine fantastic and you are with the guy who runs the airport. My wine glass was never empty and the food super, yet it is the vibe that Düsseldorf has that is special. The sunny day turned into a night that had a warm breeze and the crack (conversation) was great. As our table of LA and NYC writers grew smaller the core group held on to our coveted spot and the waiter catered to our every want. This takes me back to the old days, when you feasted and dinner was an event. I even had a great surprise when one of the LA writers was a past travel mate. Between the super airport arrival with limo and private immigration in VIP lounge and this dinner, I got to feel like one lucky dude. To top it off the morning is on my own, a chance to seek out just what I want to, pinch me travel gods!