Marc Chagall, from Reims to High Falls

When I saw the magnificent stained glass works by Marc Chagall in the Reims Cathedral I was mesmerized, the beauty undeniable. I though about Chagall and back to the period in his life when he lived just down the road from my home in the small village of High Falls. The though that a genius whose works are revered around the world in major sites stirs my soul. It isn’t a well known fact that Chagall spent time in Ulster County yet I do understand just what might have attracted him, the light here is special, lighter. One quote of his I love is, “great art takes up where nature ends.” The change of seasons makes the little village different all the time. I am not sure where he lived during the period he spent here after fleeing Europe during WWII; it is on my list of things to discover here in the place I love, the list grows endless.

Alcohol Research

Frank Lloyd Wright's Skyscraper

I was picking out some pictures for a GoNOMAD piece and came across this one, the only skyscraper designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. It originally was designed for NYC but ended up in Bartlesville, OK. The Price Towers Inn was a great place to base in Oaklahoma.

Voting White in France

With the debate debacle filling the news cycles endlessly I thought about a recent lunch conversation at Chateaux les Crayeres in Reims. Basically our host was interested in just how the election in the US was going. In an election year filled with strong emotions the response from all was surprising, the poor man didn’t know what he started. I ended my piece with my feelings of disenchantment with politicians in general. I no longer register with either party. I then asked him about Sarkozy versus Royal and just how that played out in France. He said he voted white, meaning that he wasn’t for either. We all found it strange that you could vote down all the candidates. The logic is that it is counted and the different factions can see the reaction to the candidates they put up for office. I will not be voting white this time, just need a rest from the news for a bit. That is after watching the debate tonight... preferably with a glass of bubbly

Drappier Champagne and General Charles de Gaulles

I did a radio segment today on Around the World Travel Radio about my trip to Champagne. I was asked about special Champagne Houses I visited and one came right to mind, Drappier. It is family owned and goes back to 1808, the vines are south facing in the chalky area near Urville. It is one of the finest Aubois Champagnes. We tasted so many fine vintages there all so very satisfying. The French president and WWII General Charles de Gaulles loved it, it is easy to see and taste why! Check out a new travel blog by the Devil Dog for some great prose about the grapes.

Village Blacksmith

Falling in Love With Fall in the Northeast

It is offically fall now and it is time to stack the Dutch Elm that burns into hard hot embers and stack the kayaks today. The barn has been painted and the gardens are slowly fading, I love it. After many years of Scottsdale's Autumn heat I like a fire going while we sit at the long farm table and the chill in the early morning wake up, the coffee smells better when you are wrapped in a robe. The days are still warm and the produce from the farm stands change and the eggs from my neighbor's chickens insure great hearty dishes. This will be the first Oct. in years that I will be around, next foreign destination is Belgium in Nov. and a week at Cozy Cove, Maine in early Oct.I am hoping Max will head up for a few days also. I tend to get more productive once the season changes, more peaceful also. The changes in seasons are a renewal and reminder that time marches on, I love a parade!

A Musketeer in Troyes Champagne

I love finding cities that are rarely visited by Americans; I have nothing against my country men. It is just pleasant to stroll through a city like Troyes and hear the melodic sounds of French. That said however it is my duty to share my favorite places and Troyes is one of them. The center is filled with half timbered houses dating from after the great fire of 1524 and narrow alleys twist and turn. Its churches and cathedral are filled with works of art and the laid back atmosphere perfect for chilling. My hotel in Troyes fit perfectly as it was three half timbered houses redone with the ancient beams and overlooked a picture pretty courtyard. At night from my top floor room the view of the cathedral was lit up like a confectionary masterpiece. Life at the Maison de Rhodes was indeed sweet. Troyes is the kind of place where you will immediately get relief from the modern mess of life today and move to a slower satisfying pace. A back drop that will make you feel like the fourth Musketeer.

Alex Miles, Cooking in Dijon

The cleaver fell and it was off with the lapin’s head, the executioner Alex Miles has a steady hand. With the skill of a surgeon Alex trims said rabbit. We sip our white Burgundy in fascination at the whirling dervish armed with cleaver. A rainy Sunday in Dijon is made perfect by spending the day at the market and in the kitchen with expiate Alex. In between laughs Alex’s fascination of the sociology of food comes through. His intimate relations with the purveyors of Dijon provides the best available and Alex knows what to do with the goods. After shooting two days in Paris I found myself snapping this maestro at work more than any monument in the capital. Burgundy is a Mecca for the wine and food crowd, it is better done after spending some time with Alex.
http://www.miles-alex.com/cooking-classes.html

French Food

Had I not just returned from dining my way across Champagne and Burgundy I might have headed to NYC for the French Culinary Institute’s hands on event of eating and cooking this weekend. After eating at such culinary temples like L’Ermitage de Corton in Beaune and Château Les Crayeres in Reims I am more than satisfied. The price tag for the event is a hefty $1,395 but at least it isn’t in Euros. In France food is art and I love being a critic, double thumbs up on both places mentioned above. I have just read Max’s blog and it appears that he is currently checking out some fantastic places in Italy, another hard day in the office!

The Devil Dog in Champagne and Burgundy

Traveling on a press trip usually means hanging with the ladies, 65% of the time, except for some adventure forays. Even though the last French trip was châteaux’s and fine living I had a compadre a wild man in the best way. Joel Berliner is spreading his wings in the freelance world and no doubt his little bad boy behavior will lead to some fantastic stories. His laughter is contagious and his stories of his past days with a band and current wonderings through Hef’s house are entertaining. His intimate journeys with Mick, Keith and Ron have battle tested the man. Hey any guy that can keep Hefner entertained has got to have panache. Within a few hours of meeting him I coined him the Devil Dog and the name fit. Devil Dog had a steady gig with a big paper till like many papers the travel section was demolished. As I read a book in my comfortable bed at Le Cep in Beaune with the windows wide open, I heard blues from a harmonica. It was the Dog letting me know he was on the prowl and searching for a story.

Beaune is the Bomb!

Last night I tried to create a meal with a taste of Burgundy for my wife Lil. Perhaps my dish of Boeuf Bourguignon wasn’t great but the bottle of Beaune Ier Cru was a big hit, soft and round to be precise. The city of Beaune will long linger in my mind; its beauty is evident on every corner and gazing out of my window at the Hotel Le Cep was a fantastic start to my day. Wine is King in Burgundy and Beaune is its royal residence.

Essoyes, Renoir's Happy Hideaway

The pictures of Renoir’s gnarled hands were an amazing thing to see, to think those hands created such great works of art is an astounding thought. Our last stop in Champagne was in the village of Essoyes, a summer retreat for the Renoir family. It was where his wife was from. Renoir said he could get better potatoes and bread in the country, living in the country myself I agree. His last days were spent in his beloved village of Essoyes and he is buried there, just a few hundred yards from his studio.

Biking the Burgundy Wine Route

One blog about peddling through Burgundy’s vineyards isn’t enough; ten wouldn’t cover the joy of seeing the miracle of grapes mature into vino. As I am home and listening to recordings of Sara from DeTOURS in France tell us all that is involved I realize just what vineyards in France represent, wine growing goes back thousands of years. I give her company two thumbs up!

Biking in Burgundy, Leflaive and DeTours in France

I can feel Max’s pain as he starts his journey in Europe, I have recently just returned from a food and wine extravaganza in Burgundy and Champagne. Tough work but someone has to do it! In the interest of our waists we biked through villages such as Pommard, Volney and Meursault to get to Puligny-Montrachet, these names appear on the bottles of some of France’s best wines. Of course when we sat with Olivier LeFlaive at his cellars and hotel for lunch we did our best to devour fine bottles of wine and copious amounts of great dishes. The table in the courtyard sagged with delights and no surrender was offered, the bright sun shone and Olivier’s stories made the time fly by, he is also a splendid guitarist. The man is a charm and the vineyards no place to hold back, I didn’t! Thanks Sarah and DETOURS in FRANCE for a fantastic day.

Champagne's Bubbles at Bligny

Sadly we had to leave Champagne and the lovely Sarah Flook today as we headed into Burgundy. Sarah took us to so many amazing places throughout the region, from historical cities like Troyes to châteaux’s and vineyards. An amazing lunch and tasting stands out in my mind, our stop at Chateaux De Bligy situated out in Champagne’s country side. Fantastic vintages interspaced with local dishes were served in the Châteaux’s rooms, a different course per room. One could feel a bit like royalty!

Traveling Through Champagne

It has been an amazing past couple of days as we have crossed through some of Champagne’s best Champagne Houses, such as Drappier and Clicquot. Eating local dishes of cheeses and main courses have provided the taste buds with explosions of flavors that will long be remembered. Walking through deep caves carved hundreds of years ago filled with vintages has been interspaced with tastings at private chateaus. Our lodgings have been half timber homes dating from the 15th century, all done up with modern amenities. Best of all is six travel writers that all get along and the endless laughter late into the night.

Champagne Posting Problems

Trouble posting from Champagne, be back on Friday!

Park DeLuxe

Everything Seems Sarkozy in Paris

Perhaps I am a bit cynical but the end of W's reign is smoothing our relationship with Europe. In many visits to this amazing city I have never seen the friendliness experienced on this trip. Paris feels a peace with itself, it has never been known for that. Sarkozy seems to be liked and heads the EU for this term. I had a wonderful time but it is on to Champagne and a visit to the house of my favorite bubbly Veuve Clicquot.

Rules to Follow in Paris

The Parisians are starting to piss me off and it has nothing to do with behavior, it is their damn good looks. I have been walking my butt off all around the city to no use. I think the more they eat the more I gain! Except it happens to be the one of the prettiest cities in the world, no doubt about it! After a huge lunch I continued on my march, hoping that I caught a slimming gene from the water here. I want to wear tight jeans and have no belly like all those I see. I recalled Hemingway saying that he walked the Luxembourg Gardens to relieve hunger pains. It didn’t work for me, all I got was envy and a great rich cappuccino! There are some truths that you should know about Paris, like any big city.

The creams and lotions that they buy work only for them. I swear the face cream hasn't worked for me yet! Thats okay cause I would rather look at them.
Get a Metro Pass, you will use it.
I had a butcher hop over the counter and recommend a cheaper but better bouteille, they are not all out to cheat you.
There is no better place to introduce someone to Europe, ask my wife Lil.
Do not eat at La Butte Chaillot, they will try to rip you off.

Renaissance Hotel Le Parc Trocadero, Two Thumbs Up

The Renaissance Hotel Le Parc Trocadero is double thumbs up, my room is well fitted and the property done right! The hotel has its own courtyard and is very near the Trocadero. Marriott is really settling in to Paris in a big way, this isn’t the Renaissance that you might think of in the US, it is tres chic!

Heather Stimmler-Hall Gets Naughty in Paris

I had dinner last night with a girl who knows all about being naughty; in fact it isn’t how it sounds. There were a few other writers and such with us. However after reading through Heather Stimmler-Hall’s new book Naughty Paris, A Lady’s Guide to the Sexy City I would bet she knows exactly where to have a romantic meal. The book is cleverly written and delves into all that is sexy in Paris. The city simply oozes sex; even an old guy like me can see that. Heather complied all she has learned about Paris after first coming here in 1995. After a stint as Travel editor for ELLE.com she moved into specializing in guidebooks about Paris, she also has a website called the Secrets of Paris and is available as a personal guide. Personally I think the book is perfect for men also, especially if your visiting with your wife or girlfriend. Why should naughty girls have all the fun?

People Watching in Paris

Made it just fine with a great seat in 8F, full recline!! Spent the day just walking and people watching, no better city for it!

Paris, the Secret History, a Study in Lust and Violence

Packed and in the morning I head to JFK to fly to Paris, perfect in September. I have been reading the most fascinating book about the city named Paris- the Secret History, by Andrew Hussey. I love the way the book covers the long history of this city. It has details and stories that really delve deep into just what makes the city tick. The people of Paris have always had their own mind set, very different. One of my favorite spots in Paris is the colonnaded Place des Vosege built in 1605 under Henri IV to build the city back up from Catholic vs. Protestant troubles. Today it is the perfect place to sit at a café and listen to buskers. Henri had a vast sexual appetite as many Parisians still have the reputation for today. It is said that Parisians were amazed that a king who smelled like a dirty goat could get so much action. The Place des Vosege though a fashionable address became the scene of duels as well a prostitution hotspot, many luminaries made it their home. In those days many other French cities were hesitant to let hot blooded Parisians enter their well run cities least some sort of trouble arise.

Back to France, Champagne, Burgundy and Paris

In a couple of days I return to France for a trip through Champagne and Burgundy to explore the vineyards. But first I will spend a few days in Paris, one of my favorite places on earth. Every trip that Maison de la France has arranged for me has been a winner, so I have no doubts that my time in Paris will be productive as well as enjoyable. My digs in the City of Lights will be the Renaissance Paris Hotel Le Parc Trocadero, by all accounts a very special place. Renovations to this hotel were completed this year and the buildings that comprise the property all have historical importance. Part of it was the home of Alfred Nobel and another the workshops of Bagues. Ready to board my Air France flight and head over to one of my favorite European countries.

Hudson River Valley Gets Kudos from Town & Country Travel and Budget Travel

I always knew it but it is great to see that I am backed up by two of my favorite travel magazines, Budget Travel and Town & Country Travel. My home turf of the Hudson River Valley has gotten some long over due kudos, and from two magazines that are opposite ends of the $$$ spectrum. Budget Travel named Port Jervis and Catskill in their ten coolest small towns piece. Town & Country covered the whole area and included two of my favorite restaurants one on each side of the Hudson, Gigi’s in Rhinebeck and Depuy Canal House just down the road from my home. To me though sitting on the back deck lit with hurricane lamps gets top billing.