Sacre-Coeur, Paris Provides Penance

I walked up to Sacre-Coeur then down through Montmarte this morning in a fog as I ended up going out with a flight crew that handles private 777 jets for ultra rich oil boys from the Middle East last night. The climb up and back down was joyful penance.It was cooler and dryer today in Paris, though in this city who really cares, beauty over comes all!

Tres Chic in Paris

Only a Parisian could make removing a pebble from sandals look this good.

Danger on the Camps Des Elyees

I am not sure what I was thinking when I stopped mid-street on the Champs Des Elyees but the motorcycle in the picture missed me by inches, Gonomad photo man Paul Shoul would be proud of me!

Happy at Hilton, Arc de Triomphe

My last day in Paris was great but coming home to the Hilton Arc de Triomphe capped it off perfectly.I went to the Mosaic Spa and had a steam in the Hamman, a Turkish style steam. Then up to the lounge for some champagne and nibbles. I had a thought today when I spent ten Euro's at a cafe. If booking at a great hotel do exec class all the extras are priceless.

Segolene Pushes in Paris

With the run off election here in france coming, team Segolene stumps La Rue Des Rosiers.

Vegan in Paris

Veggies are getting their due in Paris, a new cooking school called Cuisine Fraich'Attitude is for fruits and vegatables.Top Paris chefs are showing up to teach the 2 1/2 hour course.

Place Des Vosges and Borsalino

One of my favorite areas of Paris is the Place des Vosges. I caught a little band busking that I thought was great so I bought their funky CD, memories of a hot Sunday afternoon.Borsalino really had the crowd cheering.

Soleil Leaving Paris

It finally has rained and the temps have dropped in France, I just was chatting up with some Ozzies in the bizz lounge that fly private jets around the world. I am in a new Hilton, the Hilton Acr de Triomphe and loving the 1930's style decor. The lounge had great finger food and a fab bar feel.The lack of Soleil feels great!

Walking Paris

As I zipped around Paris today I realized it was my tenth visit to this wonderful city, and memories run deep for me here. Paris was the first place I brought my wife for her first visit to Europe. It is also the last city I visited with my Dad before he passed on as well as the city where I started my first back packing trip through Europe as a kid.

I walked it with a vengeance today with the premise being I wouldn’t take the Metro once. I started at the Hilton Eiffel Tower and walked to the Musee d’ Orsay, then through the Latin Quarter and on to Jardin Du Luxembourg to an area filled with literary history, Montparnasse to have a drink at La Ronde. Next was the Ile Saint –Louis and to the wonderful Musee Carnavalet ,my second museum stop of the day. I listened to some wonderful classical music in the stunning Place Des Vosges, and hoofed it to my temp home in the Hilton.

At the exec lounge I by passed all of the wonderful cocktail and wine options and guzzled several Perrier’s waters. While taking in the view of the Eiffel Tower from the lounge I relived all of my Parisian experiences, many thanks to Maison de la France and Hilton as well as Katherine Johnstone.

Temp Hilton Office in Paris

Paris is a Playpen

Darfur in Paris

Sailing, Jardin Du Luxembourg

Musee d'Orsay, Cross

One of my new favorite artists from my visit to the Musee d'Orsay today, Cross.

Getting Married In France

When a girl is getting married in France it is a custom for her friends to dress her up in costume and take her out.

Lavender Dreams from Bleu Provence, Nyons

I have to thank Philippe Sogul for a great nights sleep last night. Philippe is the owner of Bleu Provence and a distiller of herbs and plants in Nyons, France.His specialty is lavender and I soaked in the tub with a squirt of his Pure Lavandes last night. I slept like a baby will the smell of lavender, a natural relaxent. It was fasinating to see how Philippe boils down the plant and destills its essence. Nyons also is known for its black olives.

Drome to Paris, France on the Rail

It has been a long day but I am in my Jr. Suite looking up at the Eiffel Tower thanks to my friends at Hilton. It is strange being in such modern accommodations after spending the last few surrounded by hallowed and wonderful walls but modern right now works great. It has been tough keeping connected due to shortages in WiFi connections but the trip was fantastic and I will post daily to fill in gaps as well as reports from Paris.

Last night was spent at the Manoir de la Roseraie, a wonderful chateaux in Grignan.
Above our place was the castle called Chateau de Grignan, an imposing structure. The
Drome Provencal Region is full of life and nature and a pleasure to explore. We had
dinner at the Roseraie with Bruno Domenach, the very knowledgeable and friendly director of the region. Food has certainly played a huge part of this amazing trip through the Rhone- Alps.

I would write more tonight but the lights of the Eiffel Tower are throwing off a fireworks type of display and the clock is passing the witching hour, going to dream of the Drome.

Vigneron in Nyons France

Besides gourmet dining and sleeping in Châteauxs we have been meeting with artisans along the way. Today in beautiful Nyons we met with two that produce great products from the land.

Raphael produces amazing vinegar called La Para using fine wines from the region. He infuses several with herbs and each barrel is numbered. It takes him nine months to produce a barrel. A commercial operation can produce 5000 barrels in twelve hours. Some things shouldn’t be rushed.

Behind Chateau Number Two

Our second night of what we like to call the Chateau Crawl was Chateau de Rochegude.It seems strange that such a peaceful place has such a violent history.

Final Night with French Press Trip

The last few days have been filled with great lodgings, fantastic food and good fun. The only problem I have is getting a steady internet connection. I will be on my own in Paris starting Friday night and will have time to share some of the wonderful people and places recently met. For now it is time to head to our final dinner on the grounds of our last castle stay.

Chateau Bagnols, Living Large

At some point in my life I must have done something good and my stay at the Chateau De Bagnols is one huge pay back. This 13th century castle is amazing! My bathroom was one of the towers and the tub was big enough to swim in. The vineyards surround the castle and bells ring through the countryside. This is the best place I have ever stayed.

Dinner at Paul Bocuse, Lyon

It wasn’t easy leaving the confines of the amazing Hotel des Loges for dinner last night but when it is at a place where the owner is a “Three Star Michelin” holder for over forty years, there is no choice. For years the name Paul Bocuse has been revered, his family has been in the cooking game since the 17th century. Lyon has always been a gastronomic Mecca and Bocuse is the King.

Dinner:

Lobster Cassoulette,

Fricassee of Chicken from Brest Region in a light Cream Sauce with Morels

Some of the finest cheeses from the region and choice sweets to finish

It was sheer pleasure watching my fellow dinners get their dishes served. Sea Bass, Veal and Filet Rossini rounded out the choices. Needless to say the wines were perfect. I bow to Bocuse.

Air France and Class

Twenty four hours ago I was gazing over the Caribbean from St Lucia; tonight I am looking out of the windows of the Air France Business Lounge. Back to back trips are hard or at least the flying part is so I really appreciated getting a pass. Lil really made it easier by meeting me at the LGA Holiday Inn last night. I didn’t get in till 12 midnight but she had some food and a bottle of red waiting. We got to hang out at the hotel till 1 PM today and then went into the city for a late lunch. That also makes back to back easier, thanks Lil.

The itinerary for this trip looks amazing so crumpled in coach or not really makes no difference. A stop at a couple of France’s top châteaux’s and vineyards fills the first five days then I have the next four on my own in Paris to work on a different piece.

Playing Tarzan on St Lucia

It was `a busy day in the air yesterday, crowds of families making their way home from all the islands of the Caribbean. A lot of them getting home in time to send the kids back to school Monday, every kid from Connecticut must have passed through Miami Airport yesterday. Fortunately I had a B seat on the flight from St. Lucia to Miami cause it was all downhill from there. I can only hope that my flight to France tonight goes somewhat smoother.

The best airtime was yesterday morning as we zipped via cables over the lush hillsides of St. Lucia on an amazing canopy tour, gravity powered and speedy. I have done these tours before but none as well done as this one. It really gives a new meaning to, “ladies and gentlemen, please buckle your seat belts.”

A Little Help on St Lucia

Jump

Above it all on St. Lucia

Fishing in St. Lucia

St. Lucia, Busy With the Past

It was a very full day here in St Lucia, volcanic vents, botanical gardens and an afternoon of boating. St Lucia is visually stunning and picturesque, friendly also. The small fishing villages that ring the island give an authentic picture of a Caribbean that is fading. The town of Soufriere and the Pitons will take you back fifty years. The day ended back at Coconut Bay with a deep tissue massage with Barbara, now named Magic Fingers.

Team St Lucia

St Lucia, Boys on the Boat

Happy in St Lucia

I slept fitfully at Coconut Bay Resort as the trade winds blew past my balcony. It was the shortest transfer ever from the Hewanorra Airport to the resort. The Coconut sits Oceanside with superb views and sparkling waters. Hewanorra is the name of a type of iguana that is populous on this side of St Lucia. I was told that the people of St Lucia are the friendliest in the Caribbean, so far that rings true.

Town & Country and GoNOMAD Meet up in Byron Bay

I picked up the summer issue of Town & Country Travel on my way to the Crowne Plaza at LGA airport today and was pleased to read the article, The Coast of Utopia in it. It was about Byron Bay Australia a great place that I visited this past September. I loved Emma Sloley’s take on the place. I was also pleased that we stayed at the same place, the Byron at Byron, a gem. I was glad to see a picture of my Ashtanga yoga instructor, Sheldon Leon included in the pictures and I am glad that he recovered from giving me instructions. It wasn’t easy considering that a health drink to this old Woodstock warrior is a caipirinha made with green tea. I can still remember the great feelings of relaxation I felt there, even with my view here of rows of houses in Queens NY. Fortunately the skyline of Manhattan is visible, that makes me think of another trip. GoNOMAD Byron Bay

Fine Living Channel and Elliot Find Travel Value

I got a preview DVD of The Fine Living Channel’s new travel show today hosted by a travel guru named Christopher Elliot. Elliot is the ombudsman for National Geographic Traveler, among other among travel outlets. The name of the show is “What you Get for the Money,” the show will attempt to help with “vacation inflation.” That certainly seems like a noble cause. I personally after traveling many years have come to the conclusion that value far out weighs budget, one mans budget isn’t an others and I hate labels.

The show airs May 17 at 9:00 AM ET and ends June 15 at 5:00 ET. A series I will preview with anticipation, via laptop while checking out some finds of my own. Kudos to Elliot and Fine Living Channel for trying to stretch travel dollars!

St Lucia, Just the Start

It’s been awhile since I have packed two suitcases for what will breakdown into three trips. In the afternoon I head to the Crowne Plaza near LGA to overnight for an early morning flight to St. Lucia. The itin looks like it is packed with some great outdoor activities; hiking through the sulfer springs and Balenbouche Estate, then sailing by catamaran up the west coast of St Lucia to snorkel. Day two will be a morning of playing jungle man and doing a canopy tour through rainforest ending at a waterfall called Errard by ATV. I will fortunately be living in style at the Coconut Bay Resort for my nights in St Lucia.

From there I catch a late flight back to LGA to overnight before heading to France. There I will switch bags and hang with Lil and go into NYC for lunch and some museum visits. That night on to France and Lyon, a city I personally love. After a few nights exploring the area, I am on my own armed with a train pass and no set destination, but a definite stop in Paris. I will love the days alone to catch up with myself!

Travel Aware, But Travel

My heart goes out to those that felt the wrath of a crazed killer at Virginia Tech. Violence knows no borders or boundaries. I think that many people I have run into in other counties have fears of visiting the US and you can bet that yesterday’s events will strengthen that fear. It is the same thing when I head to a place that has had recent political problems, “why would you go there,” is often asked. The answer is easy, I do not believe that murder and mayhem is isolated to a country or culture. Isolating yourself isn’t going to change anything. Living in fear isn’t living at all. Travel aware whether it is overseas or to the market down the street and better yet enjoy the journey.

Morocco, Loved the Place

I got an email from an old friend today about the bombings in Casablanca inquiring about what I thought about visiting Morocco. I went this fall and had a hell of a trip, in a good way. I told him I wouldn’t hesitate to return, tomorrow if possible. The people I encountered were very friendly and open. The country has made great strides in opening itself up. Foreign visitors from the Rolling Stones to Winston Churchill have revered and praised the great culture that is found in Morocco.

The question made me think a lot about fanatics in everything, people that will not let you voice your opinion about anything. I listen to both left and right wing shows and media. Being one sided to me is narrow; no one is right 100% of the time. I equally cheer and jeer both. I find that I do not even like to discuss issues with those who have their minds made up without feeling like they can be open to others' ideas. I have found that in general it is never a discussion with them. It is usually a one sided discourse on what they have heard, right or left.

Funny enough is the fact that in countries like Morocco and Jordan I have listened and had great political discussions. Maybe the fact that fanatics bomb and kill in countries that are trying hard to find a place on the world stage has something to do with it. I guess when the actions of fanatics get that outrageous, the only real freedom is to think what you want.

Kurt Vonnegut, My Friend

Many years ago I was a host at JG Melons in Bridgehampton NY, part of the ritzy Hamptons located on the end of Long Island NY. Even then celebs used to come out in droves during the summer. On any night the tables at Melons would be packed with musicians, actors, artists and writers. Our signature dish was fantastic burgers cooked to perfection and cottage fries that I still long for. Truman Capote was then drunkenly cruising the town and banned from our bar and Paul Simon and Calvin Klein would sit at our tables with friends regularly.

My favorite customers were Kurt Vonnegut and his wife Jill Krementz, they were always friendly and down to earth. In fact I would eagerly await their arrival and would always get a greeting from them. When Jill would be heading away to some photo assignment she would ask me to mind Kurt and remember to get his hat when leaving the place. JG Melons is no longer in Bridgehampton and the celebs seem harder and less deserving. My heart goes out to the wonderful Jill and their family. My favorite Vonnegut quote:

“I’ve had a hell of a good time,” he once wrote. “I tell you we are here on earth to fart around, and don’t let anybody tell you any different.”

Visiting St. Lucia

I am packing for a two bagger, a quick trip to St. Lucia another bag for France with one night at a NYC hotel in between. Lil will meet me on a Saturday night with the pre-packed bag. I am excited for my stop over at one of the world’s top 50 eco-destinations according to Natural History Magazine. After checking into Coconut Bay Resort, I will be checking out volcanos, sulfur springs and rainforest canopy exploration. The last time I used a system of horizontal traverses, pulleys and harnesses was in Hungary with Max.

Dominos

Heartbreak Hotel, Key West

Happy in the Quest

After a long but productive day in NYC I got home and watched a movie called Pursuit of Happyness, spelled that way for a reason. As Lil and I watched we had tears streaming down our faces. While none of our past even remotely resembled the problems of Will Smith’s character we though about a lot of things that seemed so insurmountable at the time. We both though about the times when a double shift in a restaurant was daily, and someone had to pick up a three year old from day care. Memories of a past old college partner who used an Amex corporate card to charge plane tickets to my business account only to sell them for cash, than flee.

I after today will always remember the fact that I could cooked cheap pasta and covered it with cheap sauce. I was the last candidate to raise a child that was so young, but I am proud that he goes to school and works double shifts at a restaurant himself. I have no doubt that he will go far. The best thing that I remember is that we built a family; there is nothing so precious to me.

Joe Francis, Long Fall From a Pile of Money

As I recently posted, the Girls Gone Wild, bus zoomed past us in Coconut Grove last week. This week the founder Joe Francis has had to turn himself in to the authorities. With all the money and goods he has piled up he is learning a big lesson, money and notoriety do not remove the mantle of responsibility. The 34 year old makes an estimated $29 million a year from breast baring girls buzzed and looking for their 15 minutes of fame. One original charge was filming seven under age women; perhaps his biggest blunder was thinking that money could insulate him from a judge’s order to surrender to U.S. marshals on a contempt charge. Be cool on the way up cause you just may have a long drop back down.

Chicken Store

What is After Key West or What Would Hemingway Do

We left Key West this morning and enjoyed the ride up through the Keys to the Hilton near the Ft. Lauderdale Airport to chill, good choice as the pool area is tropical. We will think fondly of the Keys and looked into a house rental for a week next year. The little nooks and hidden spots still take you back to the past of rum runners, wreckers, writers and generally off beat types. As I said earlier I like this place and tacky is there but another West is there also. Key West has survived a lot of things and will always I hope.

It was once the richest town in America and then during the depression the poorest. We found a little Bahamas style cottage with small pool and foliage that is tropical for next year at Historic Hideaways. Best yet I spent time with Lil totally un- stressed. Food was great and skies sunny. A great place to prepare for my most ambitious spring travel schedule ever, St. Lucia, France, Sweden & Finland & Iceland, then back to Provencal. Then down to St. Croix for a trip with the soon to be newly married Dennis and Denise Gogg. Hemingway once said,” Travel and writing broaden the butt, I write standing up.” I like both and it keeps me alive!

Hemingway's Cats and his Last Penny

We had only one rainy morning on our South Florida exploration trip and we spent it at Hemingway’s house in Key West. It was great to wander the home that housed Ernest, fan or not. He was a fan of cats and the great, great, great, great grand kittens still hang at the house, 49 of them. Archie the eldest can be found cuddled up on Hem’s bed and Susan Hayward curled up in the ticket takers cottage. Over 2 tons of cat food is used in a year and the cats have a vet visit once a week at around $50,000 a year.

The guide told some great stories and my favorite was about the pool. Hem mentioned one day that he wished he had a pool. When he was in Spain for a few months his wife, Pauline, had one put in at a great cost. On his return after he learned what it cost he exploded. He took a penny out of his khakis and chucked it in the pool screaming,” you might as well take my last goddamn penny.” Pauline dove in and got the penny. After they divorced she had the penny set in concrete by the pool. She loved showing Hem’s last penny. It is still there.

Key Lime Pie, Oh My!

Naked at the Bar, Key West

After staying at at a hotel with a clothing optional beach I wasn't ready to even think about a bar with that option. Many who do not wear suits or clothing should. For the good of mankind I do.

Cocks in Key West

Sex Organs of Plants

Flowers amaze me, just so well designed and perfect.

Key West and Rooster's Rights

Lil and I have really been enjoying the old town of Key West with its charms and stunning sunsets. Unfortunately with bad connections I cannot post pictures till tomorrow. The Atlantic Shores Hotel has proved to be an eye opening place that we really have had some laughs about. We just found out that it is due to be torn down this May to make room for a new luxury resort. I can only hope that things like that do not happen to much and will not change the balance of this town that is well balanced. Locals, visitors, gay folk and family all seem to fit here in Key West with ease.

One of our favorite things about town is the Gypsy chickens and roosters, they roam freely around and the roosters are so majestic that it is amazing. It is also a point of contention that has sparked debates. I again hope that the 2000 estimated poultry population remains as they have for many years, since 1800's. We went to the Chicken Store where they care and champion the birds rights. Freedom is for the birds!

Atlantic Shores Key West, Clothing Optional

The Key West sunset was a great as I remembered just more people watching it. The old town has remained charming and we are enjoying the laid back lifestyle. Lodging at this busy time of the year is a wee bit hard and the top choices are booked. We are moving from our Comfort Inn to a funky little beach front place called the Atlantic Shores. I checked it out yesterday and it looks fine. It is in the old town and near Duval Street I suspect that I should have packed Chaps and a wig though, rainbow friendly with clothing optional pool.

Hemingway and Sloppy Joe's

I’ll bet Hemingway never had one but I heard he did get sloppy here. The Sloppy Rita drink from Sloppy Joe’s in Key West; Tequila, citronage, sour mix, splash each of orange juice and club soda. I promise that not a one will pass these lips!

Miami Spices it up

Today we pull out of Coconut Grove and head to Key West; it has been twenty years since my last visit. CG has been fabulous and our last dinner here superb. Jaguar a ceviche spoon bar and grill was lively and people watching fantastic, outdoor seating on the street side has been one of our favorite activities.

Jaguar was also a place that made use of exotic flavors that are getting popular here. Here are some of the new fruits and spices used:

Acerola- “Barbados Cherry” Tastes like a tart strawberry

Ciruela- A red or orange fruit with a red colored flesh that has a flavor similar to peanuts

Calomndin- A tiny orange related to kumquat that has the flavor of lemon

All have properties that are rich in vitamins and anti oxidants, great stuff!

Miami Seaquarium, Feed the Snake a Three Year Old

How about this for dumb as #$&%##, having your 3 year old kid doing a photo op with a Boa. According to the Miami Herald that is what happened yesterday at the Miami Seaquarium. Worst yet was the kid was bitten on the face. “Generally speaking, boa constrictors that are raised in captivity do very well around people,” Cruz said. “But anything can trigger them. They are wild animals. When they get spooked, they bite.” Duh! Think I’ll pose with a gator in the Everglades on my way to the Keys tomorrow.