Do It Without My Fez On, Morocco Bound

Thanks to my good friends at Spring O’Brien, I headed back to the bookstore today to procure some new guidebooks about Morocco. (This is the first US Company to rep Morocco in twenty years) Ten days after my return from Sydney and Tahiti I am winging it to Marrakech and Fez, places that I have long had a desire to visit. Ever since listening to CSNY sing about the Marrakech Express I have wanted to tread through the souks and explore. One of Marrakech’s biggest fans was Winston Churchill, who called it, “the most lovely spot in the world”.

Fez or Fes is the spiritual capital of Morocco and is a UNESCO City, a more traditional feel it is said. It is also said that there are over ten thousand alleyways winding through this ancient city, I plan on walking at least half! Over the next few weeks I should have plenty of reports from Sydney, Tahiti, Marrakech and Fez, stay tuned!

Aurora Products, Best Nuts

 I went down to CT Friday to visit my cousin Steph Blackwell-Baily's company. She has become the Queen of all nuts, organic that is. Her company supplies most of the biggest super markets on the east coast with great trail mixes, fruits and candy concoctions. In the last eight years she has had to move into larger spaces in her quest to provide quality products to a huge number of buyers. In comes the exotic papaya and other high quality stuff and is mixed and blended into great combos. I am so proud of what she has built with Aurora Products, especially when my sister and I left with the Jeep loaded with great mixes, time to hit the trail, mix! 

John Novi's Busy Kitchen at the Depuy Canal House

  

Elliot Spitzer's Better Half

Don’t read into the better half title because Elliot Spitzer has proven himself but I was very impressed by his wife Silda Wall Spitzer and the way she carried herself. I was at the fundraiser for NY Senate canidate Susan Zimet at the Depuy Canal House in High Falls this afternoon. The finger food prepared by culinary great, John Novi was fantastic. The Chair for the event was Ethan Hawke and I was happy to have some words with Ulster County Treasurer Lew Kirschner and his lovely wife Amy. Kingston NY Mayor, Jim Sottile was also there and a smiling face I like to run into. All in all a very pleasant afternoon in my well-loved Ulster County for this independent! I tried posting pictures of them both but have been having Picasa problems lately!!!

Ghost Hunting in Montana

 As Halloween draws near and the haunted barns are set up to scare the local kids I find myself thinking about my trip to Montana last Oct. The trip was all about spirit tailings or ghost hunting. Old abandoned mining towns and sites of Indian massacres gave a wonderful glimpse into the Old West.

After the lynching trees that were frequently decorated with rustlers became obsolete the Montana State Prison took up the job of keeping the state safe. It was exactly one year ago tonight that I was exploring the prison with the folks from Tortured Souls Inc, armed only with a flashlight. With all that went on in the prison I was sure that if a spirit would be found it would be inside the cold stonewalls of the West’s toughest hellhole! To find out if I did meet unearthly energy click on my story at GoNOMAD, Montana. 

Byron Bay & Gerry Harvey, Spot On

Some writers do not like to get too much info about up-coming trips, I however head right to the book store to pick up some guidebooks. Even though for the press trip parts I will not have any decision-making in the planning, I love guessing where I will stay and what I will see. After a long day in NYC yesterday with lawyers and accountants I got a relaxing email with a link from the good folks at Spring O’Brien concerning where I will be staying when in Byron Bay Australia during my visit, the Byron Resort and Spa.

Byron Bay is the eastern most tip of Australia and a few hours north of Sydney on the coast and the property sits on 45 acres of rain forest. It is Australian retail magnet Gerry Harvey’s first entrée into tourism and it looks bloody bewdy! (Australian slang for beautiful) According to the website great care was used in protecting the area’s turf, looking forward to doing a lay about!

Rosendale NY Rail Trail Bridge

 Last of Fall from the Rosendale Rail Bridge, thanks for the memories! 

Hospice's Night

 Last night was the Hospice Foundation fund raiser themed "All That Jazz". It was a wonderfull event for a great cause, Hospice has help so many that are passing on and their families, my dad and my family for just one example. One of my favorite political personalities Assemlyman Kevin Cahill was honored for his good work on Hospices behalf. The event was held at the Culinary Institute of America, the other CIA! 

Chichicastenango Market Day

 Max is going to get some framed pictures from our regular writers to show at the GoNOMAD Cafe in S. Deerfield to display. While going through my picasa collection I naturally went to Guatemala's folder first. Markey day in Chichicastenango was one of the best market visits I've ever been on. While I will not be using this picture I can still smell the incense of copal burning in this woman's chuchkajaues. ( tin can with holes ) Picking five photos from hundreds isn't easy, but it sure takes me back to places!Here is a link to my article about the trip.  

Picking Pumpkins at Gill's

 For the second Saturday in a row the weather has been perfect here in the NE. Though it is just past peak leaf peekin, the day was perfect for pumpkin pickin! This young guy found his at Gill's Farm Stand on RT 209 in Hurley NY. For the last several years I have been away for some of the Fall's best. This year I lucked out and got to see the peak of my favorite season. 

Canal du Midi

Canal du Midi 

My Travel Writing World

Just had some quick email chat with Max concerning GoNOMAD tonight and it made me think about the traveling life. I’ve been with GN from the beginning and had no clue as to where that would lead. It has taken me throughout the world and into a community that is like a family. The emails were like catching up on the relatives you sometimes do not see often. Max and Paul Shoul are heading to Greenland soon and Sony Stark back to Panama this weekend to shoot more footage for what we wish for her is ground breaking! I feel like I have a friend in India when I read Mridula’s blog from India. Steve is still putting out blogs filled with great writing and history, I love that. I love finding out stuff from colleagues like Tim Leffel and regularly read his endeavors. It was so great to find out Jen Leo is in the Northern Territory in Australia.I love the great writing done on World Hum.An email from Larry & all the folks at Travelers’ Tales always makes my day and the books lighten the burdens of long flights. Recently when I was in France and Max in Austria, I felt a bit lonely when he headed home a few days earlier than I did. I also really feel for the PR machine that deals with us all! The up coming trip for me to Australia and Tahiti is foremost in my mind. Most of all I appreciate my own little brood here that understand the one common trait we all share, sharing the world.

Catch the Ferry in SF

I'm a sucker for a good farmer's market and San Francisco has one of the best I've seen, with forty restaurants and one hundred regional purveyors. This summer we spent hours at the old Ferry Building snapping shots and filling our faces, both done with relish. I still long for some more bottles of unfiltered olive oil and bright yellow tomatoes. After that I wish I could head to the Slanted Door for some Vietnamese take out!
 

Air Tahiti Nui is Geared Up

Part two of my trip to Sydney will be a stop over in Tahiti on my way back to the US. The more I study up on the place the more excited I am that Air Tahiti Nui offers this option. I like checking out airlines before a trip to see what kind of flight to expect, Air Tahiti Nui is gearing up for biz.

If your from the west coast check out this offer, a great option to the French Polynesia. A November jaunt to Tahiti has never been such a bargain. Travelers can fly Air Tahiti Nui nonstop from Los Angeles to Papeete for only $518* roundtrip in Moana (economy) class for travel November 2 to November 11, 2006.
Depart LAX Thursday November 2 at 1pm, arrive Tahiti at 7:30pm (same day), and spend a week unwinding on the white sand beaches of private motus, lounging in a luxurious over water bungalow with streams of colorful marine life swimming by, or hiking the lush green interiors of the jagged peaked Bora Bora and Moorea.
With a return flight to reality on November 11 at 9am, vacationers have seven nights to enjoy Tahiti & Her Islands on their own, creating a tropical itinerary packed with picturesque vistas and lifelong memories, before landing in California at 7:10pm (same day).
Tickets must be issued on or before November 2, and no later than seven days after reservations are made.
*FYI the special $518 roundtrip airfare includes fuel surcharges; taxes are an extra $77.90.
As you know, Air Tahiti Nui is the leading carrier to French Polynesia, with headquarters in Papeete. The airline continues to receive acclaim, ranked in the 2005 Skytrax airline survey Best Airline for the Pacific and placing in the top ten in the Cabin Staff category overall, and Best in Cabin Staff for the Australia/Pacific region. That makes me very happy that I will be trying them for the first time!  

World's Largest Lunch

NEW YORK, New York, October 17, 2006 - Melbourne is a melting pot of cultures, food culture not least among them - a reality delectably mirrored in a profusion of packed restaurants, cafes, bistros and bars. Fashionable, eclectic and eccentric, the city's dining spots offer a tantalizing tour of the world's great cuisines, from the traditional to the most wildly inventive. Thus, it's only natural that the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival (www.melbournefoodandwine.com.au) kicking off its 15th annual celebration of Victorian gastronomy on March 16, 2007, has become the largest food and wine event of its kind.
The proof? More than 250,000 foodies descend upon Melbourne each year to mingle with acclaimed international chefs during the two-week festival that covers more than 140 food and wine events across the entire state of Victoria. Highlights of the 2007 program include the return of the original MasterClass (March 24 - 25), which will bring a star-studded lineup of the world's hottest cooking talent to Melbourne to share their vast knowledge in an intimate setting at the Langham Hotel Melbourne; the World's Longest Lunch, where 5,000 people will sit down to lunch at 23 scenic locations across Victoria; and the Ultimate Cellar Door, showcasing some of the state's finest vintages.
Here is an event I would love to be at, but I will, "be down under," in Sydney and Bryon Bay on Nov. 8.  

Wine Spectator for Free

Big bucks doesn't guarantee a big flavored wine. Instead of buying and trying, which can cost a fortune go to the experts. Wine Spectator will offer free access to their online site from Oct. 16 - 31 in honor of their Tenth Anniversary. Online you can get the ratings for 164,000 different bottles.
 

Israel's President, In Deep Trouble

A few years back I was invited to the President of Israel’s residence for a party along with some French performers. It was an amazing night as the gardens were filled with tables of delicious food and cocktails flowed freely. Music drifted through the evening air and diplomats mingled with Israeli movie stars. Not many people know that Israel even has a President, a mostly ceremonial position. Here is my report on my trip on GoNOMAD.

It seems that President Moshe Katzav has since gotten into some big trouble, here is part of the report on AOL

JERUSALEM (Oct. 15) - President Moshe Katsav could face the most serious charges ever brought against an Israeli official after police recommended he be indicted for rape, aggravated sexual assault and other counts, the result of a months-long investigation of complaints by women who worked for him.
Israeli police made their recommendation Sunday in a meeting with Attorney General Meni Mazuz, who has the final word on whether Katsav will be put on trial.

Meeting His Holiness  

If This is Tuesday, That Must be the Pope

 It feels strange that it has only been a week today since I returned from France. With all the events going on here it seems like months. Perhaps that is why I some times like a solo trip with no definite plans, the days blend. Instead of saying I was there on Tuesday, it becomes that was the day I met his holiness. 

Putting the Kayaks Away

Last day of kayaking today, water was damn chilly as was the temps. Great end of the season. 

Crafts People & Old Friend Rudy Hopkins

Today was one of the prettiest fall days I've seen in awhile so Lily and I grabbed cameras and headed into the Catskill Mts. While skirting the Ashokan Reservoir I thought of a very special place to stop that Lily had never been before, Crafts People. This place (store doesn't fit) is amazing with four buildings filled with crafts and artwork from over 5oo local artists. It is located on 25 acres in the woods that screamed with fall colors today. The owner Rudy Hopkins started the place years ago on the first floor of his home. I used to stop and shop then sit by the fireplace and have a glass of wine that Rudy always had on hand for visitors. The custom still stands today despite of the growth, hot cider, coffee or wine is still offered and each building has a place to sit by a fire. The quality of the works are stunning and the prices extremely fair. I got to chat a bit to Rudy today, his mischievous smile still beguiling. There is no finer place to shop on a brisk fall day than the spot Rudy founded years ago. Thanks Rudy!
 

Woodstock Film Festival & The Bear

Its not Sundance but it is fiercely independent and it is going on this weekend, the Woodstock Film Festival. From Oct. 11-15 Ulster County will be hosting the premier films. To quote Lili Taylor, "The films here are wonderful, it’s a great place." For me it is a time to enjoy fall and watch the preening film peeps. It’s a cool event and last night we went with some friends to the Bear Cafe in Bearsville, once the headquarters of rock manager extrodiner Albert Grossman. Janis Joplin and Bob Dylan were his clients. As I sat at the Bear I looked out across the stream where Albert’s office was once. I in my very naive younger days had a meeting with him arranged by my dad about learning the musical production bizz. Al had me pegged and said, “kid do what you like and the rest will fall in place.” He was right! When I was at that age it wasn’t unusual to see Paul Butterfield passed out at the bar and other rock legends doing the decedent. It was nice to be back at a scene and doing what I like, watching.

Record Price for Ptolemy Atlas

The world's first-ever printed atlas fetched a record 2.1 million dollars at Sotheby's in London recently. It was a 1477 edition of Cladius Ptolemy Atlas and beat the previous record of the Doria Atlas sold in 2005. The Ptolemy Atlas was bought by London dealer Bernard Shapero for a private collector. I took my 1914 Badaker's Southern France Guide with me to France just to compare it with the way things are now. It was quite interesting to flip through when visiting various sites and cities. In fact some of it will be featured in my GoNOMAD piece. When I bought the book in a old bookstore in Maine it had a pink ribbon folded in it and made me wonder if perhaps it might have been used on a honeymoon. I'll state for that record here and now that I was not the private collector that purchased the Ptolemy, I felt bad enough blowing $30 bucks on the Badekers.

Home Office

  

Home Office

 I have quite a commute to the office, a flight of stairs, a kitchen and three cats. It being a dreary rain day in Upstate NY I decided to use the dining room table as my work space today. Lit a fire and opened the laptop will stoke it all day, lots of writing to catch up on. 

Kurdish March in Montpellier

  

Air Tahiti Nui & Sydney

 I will be spending some time on the keyboard for the next couple of weeks because I have a big trip coming up, Sydney & Byron Bay, Australia. Last time I went to Australia I spent only an afternoon in Sydney before flying to Darwin and taking the Ghan Railway to Alice Springs. After reading Budget Travel magazine’s piece on Sydney: Cool & Casual I willbe very pleased to actually spend some time there. Better yet is the chance to try Air Tahiti Nui for my flight. They now fly non- stop from NYC and a chance to visit Tahiti will be part of the return trip. The promise of snorkeling clear waters and staying in a bungalow over those waters will make a wonderful break on the long flight home. I am missing Greenland but we got good coverage going for us at GoNOMAD. 

Colors from my Next Trip

  

Let them Eat Bread

 Breakfast this morning wasn't my crusty bagguette and strong little coffee that I started my day with in Southern France. I walked over the crunchy leaves instead to get an egg sandwich from the little corner store down the street. It was kind of nice feeling like a local again, a chance to BS about all the events I missed. A little gossip and politics.Some things are the same around the world, I am just back in my world. 

TT's Readable Feast

 Just got this from Travelers Tales' thought of the Market in Lyons.

Travelers' Tales News Brief

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TravelersTales.com | October 10, 2006

The World Is a Kitchen

Taste the world one culture at a time with our newest
book The World Is a Kitchen [1]. From the casual cook to the
seasoned traveler to the serious gourmand, The World Is a
Kitchen inspires readers to experience food in a new way,
exploring new lands, new cultures, and new cuisines. Chefs,
travel writers, and dedicated foodies share their unique
experiences, transporting readers into kitchens in Morocco,
Italy, Belize, Cypress, Kenya, Vietnam, and elsewhere around the
world, revealing the diverse traditions of other countries
through their cuisine. Explore the gastronomic side of travel
and try these hard-won recipes as you go along.

* 37 first-person culinary adventures at cooking schools, on
the road, in homes, and B&Bs across the globe
* 30 international recipes, including African mafe, Russian
pelmeni, Mexican mole verde, and a classic French tarte
tatin
* Extensive resource section including research tips, cooking
schools and classes, culinary tours, internet resources, and
recommended reading

Including Recipes and Resources

"A vicarious delight for the virtual tourist, as well as an
inspiration for the most seasoned culinary voyager."
-- Mollie Katzen, author of Moosewood Cookbook

"A delicious treat..."
-- Joan Peterson, author of Eat Smart Culinary Travel Guides

"A splendidly evocative book celebrating the culinary adventurer
in each of us."
-- David Yeadon, author of The Way of the Wanderer

"Whatever your taste in reading, a feast awaits in this buffet of
personal anecdotes."
-- Andrea Rademan, editor of New Asian Cuisine

"Proves that food is a doorway into understanding other
cultures."
-- Rolf Potts, author of Vagabonding: An Uncommon Guide to the Art
of Long-Term Travel

"Generous, funny, wise and unpretentious."
-- Andrew Todhunter, author of A Meal Observed 

Radio Flyer in for a Landing

 Home in the country,door to door from Montpellier France to Cottekill NY was about twelve hours, two airports and one Highway. This week is expected to be peak leaf season, glad to be home for it! 

Thailandaies, Montpellier

Sunday in Montpellier has limited restaurants open as in all of France, but I ate at Le Bol d’ Or, a Thailandaise place that was just great. Many people forget that France had a huge impact on Asia or Indochinese several decades ago. Not only is Asian food great in France but healthy. The seafood superb and vegetables fresh, and vine de France available. Better yet the prices are better. I only wish we in the U.S. could have brought better Asian food back from Vietnam.

Merci France

It’s been a great two week trip traveling through Southern France and Lyons and tonight I am back where it all started, sunny Montpellier. The first five days were a press trip, self cruising the Canal du Midi with some European writers and that experience was terrific. The sites along one of the world’s prettiest canal systems will linger a long time in the memory banks. Food, wine and water have always been favorites for me.

The rest of the time I spent solo returning to 2 of my favorite places in France, Arles and Avignon both in Provencal. They maintained their positions with flying colors. I now have 2 new favorites that I hope to return to again, regal Lyons and stately Carcassone. Many miles by foot and many more by rail have been covered. I can only hope my flight tomorrow will be a third as comfortable as my last first class ride on the TVG from Lyons to Montpellier!

As I sit writing this I have the windows wide open and the Mediterranean sunlight is fading with all its subtle beauty. An ancient church is in view and below the blue of a pool mixes with the green of olive trees. A bottle of Chateau De Costis is breathing. I was reflecting over the wonderful treatment I received here in France as an American. My thoughts then turned to my arrival back to Cottekill NY, family and turning of the leaves. Times to rest before my next trip as several are in the works, I am a lucky man! Viva Belle France.

d'Histoire de la Resistance, Lyons

Ever since I wrote a piece called The Devil’s Wind in Traveler Tale’s Pilgrimage I have wanted to find out more about activities during WW II in France, Today I had my chance. I spent the morning at the Centre d’Histoire de la Resistance et de la Deportation housed in what once was the offices of the Gestapo and Klaus Barbie, the Butcher of Lyons. Barbie was captured in Bolivia in 1983 and got a life sentence. He should have gotten worse! The museum was so well done and had hand held recorders that were in English. The story of Vichy, Occupied France and the Résistance Movement just astounding, General de Gaulle called Lyons the, “Capital of Résistance.

Stories of treachery and heroics are given side by side, such as the tale of Abbe Bourgier from the church of St. Therese; he was shot August 20, 1944 for hiding guns and equipment in the church organ. Also learned about Jean Moulin, code named Max who helped found the movement. The deportation of the Jews in France was also covered. The museum didn’t hesitate covering collaborators either.

Unicycle on the Plaza des Beaux- Arts des Lyons