On This Day

While sitting in the sauna at the Haborside Sheraton in Portsmouth NH, I thumbed through the New Hampshire Gazette. The Gazette is the oldest paper in the Nation and its editor; Steven Fowles is an ancestor of the founder Daniel Fowles. The paper was founded in 1756.

One page I got into was the on this date page, for example:

On December 26 1862 the largest group hanging in US history happened. All at once 39 Santee Lakota Sioux were hanged. However at this site the claim is 38 natives.


On December 26 1966 the first celebration of Kwanzaa happened.

For tomorrow, December 27th the events that took place include the first Howdy Doody Time aired and Spain became a democracy after forty years of dictatorship.

Down Time

After a grueling round of parties, dinners and family events for X-mass we departed for round two up in Canaan, Maine with Lil’s sisters. Staying at Penny’s old farmhouse and the easy going nightly dinners served up for around ten are actually one of the most peaceful times of the year for me. This is a laid back place with long walks and stretching out with a good book.

This year we decided to spend a night on the way in one of my favorite cities, Portsmouth NH. This quintessential New England seacoast city is dramatic with its season displays. The shop windows are still filled with twinkling lights and creative scenes. The coast in winter is a winner.

Your Name, Sir

How come being a “Preferred Guest” is special? My recent experience with Starwood Hotel makes me wonder how regular travelers are treated. Hotels like it when you book online; it makes it easier for them and theoretically yourself. What should have been easy took over 45 minutes today.

Sign on and make reservations, “Sorry name doesn’t match member number”. It is the same name I’ve had for my whole life! Then on telephone support, “ I am sorry Mr. St. John but your name and # do not match.
I stated the obvious, “Starwood sent me the card complete with member # and my name on it,” I haven’t changed my name.
“Well that is strange,” the voice on the phone, answered. “Would you like to make a reservation”?
“Been trying for awhile, think I can use my real name and even get my points”?
“Well not if your name and # do not match”, they replied.

Round and round it went till finally I got a reservation, and didn’t even have to change my name! I wonder if I try to book on one of the company’s other properties such as Westin or Regis if I can use my real name? Apparently at a Sheraton I am now cleared to do so.

Click away

I take a lot of pictures when traveling, fortunately with digital I can erase the dogs. I frequently blow through the BBS board on Travelwriters.com and found an interesting link via one of the topics. It concerns your rights to take pictures in the US. A guideline written by Bert Krages II, Attorney at Law was helpful and updated July 2004. It covers topics such as: General Rule, Legal Remedies, and No Right to Confiscate Your Film. I wouldn’t use it to click in Katmandu or Iraqi but it was well written. www.krages.com/ThePhotographersRight.pdf

So True

Picked up a copy of James Salter’s new book, There & Then: Travel Writing is Something you do for the Money, Not a Lot of Money, But the Working Conditions can be Pleasant…

So true, cannot wait to rip into this one!

Bush Team Member at HK Protest

 
 

Do You Know This Guy?

 
 

Forbidden Fruit

Lets face it; if you travel you are looking for the forbidden. Chasing the Green Fairy known, as Absinthe was one of my quests as a young backpacker. Taras Grescoe has done all the tracking for us. His book, The Devil’s Picnic: Around the World in Pursuit of Forbidden Fruit is a fact filled encyclopedia of trying the mostly illegal delicacies the world offers.

Snake blood was one I recently had a chance to try, didn’t and couldn’t. I have however done one that is legal but dangerous, Burchek, a wine that ferments internally. You are the aging barrel. Good work, Taras, keep us updated!

Good Guy

Every once in a while you meet someone on a trip that you click with, I feel that way about Keith W. Rabin. Keith is the president of KWR International, Inc. a company that does research, communications, and consulting, with an exceptional grasp of places, especially Asia. I had the pleasure of traveling with him in Singapore and Batam last year. Whenever Keith reads these pages and finds I have been or am in Asia, he will e-mail some facts or ideas about the destination. I love that it means I have the KWR International, Inc. team watching my back. Where else would I learn the difference between Mahayana and Theravada Buddhist countries? Thanks Keith!

Modern History

The past few days while nursing a bad cold, I finished a piece for GoNOMAD about Croatia. It was not about the Croatia that attracts worldwide attention like Split or Dubrovnik, but about Zagreb and Slavonia. Slavonia in particular suffered greatly during the Balkan War. While the world was horrified about the shelling of Dubrovnik, a historical town like Vukovar was getting destroyed.

After taking the trip I found through conversations with friends that most never really understood the whole war and the various parties involved. Even after my visit I also was in need of a history lesson. Fortunately I was turned onto a great book to help me better understand the history and people of Croatia. The book Croatia: A Nation Forged in War was an insightful help to figure things out. Ancient history is far easier to figure out than history that occurs during your own lifetime. Any suggestions for another book about the wars?

Adjusting

It seems very quiet here in Cottekill today, especially after all that went on in Hong Kong and Macau. The snow is piled up and a cold wind blows the birdhouse back and forth outside my office window. Instead of Steamed Lily Bulbs and Scallop Dumplings, lunch is a spaghetti sauce made before my trip and frozen for my return.

There is no protest like the one I saw last Sunday in Hong Kong or the lighting of joss sticks like I loved so much in Macau’s A-Ma Temple. Only the domestic sounds of washing machine and dishwasher for noise. Would I return to Macau? “Hell yes”, but for now I’ll try to adjust. Myriad Travel Marketing and Macau Tourism did a fabulous job showing me a remarkable destination, many thanks.

So Quiet in Cottekill

 
 

Die Hacker Dog

It was twenty-six hours door to door for my return from Macau, not to bad even though the plane was packed. Included is the ferry to HK and the two- hour drive to upstate NY. It gave me plenty of time to catch up on my new favorite Asian newspaper, the South China Morning Post.

Here is one little piece that Max will appreciate:

Two young guys in Guangdong went to trail yesterday for hacking into and selling usernames and passwords used on OICQ, Tencent’s popular online chat program. The pair allegedly racked in 650,000 Yuan selling more then 160 user names. If found guilty expect some big sentences. Hackers everywhere, beware we are coming for you!

Big Breath

Today my last day, Alorino took us to the,” lungs” of Macau, That would be Coloane, Macau’s country side, green hills, hiking trails, traditional villages and open spaces. It is also where the beaches of Hac-Sa and Cheoc Van can be found. Best of all was the small village of Coloane the small and traditional fishing village. This town takes you back to the days of pirates and the mystical Macau. It was a good place to push back thoughts of my own journey home, half way around the world.

Take Out in Macau

 
 

Old and New Meet in Macau

 
 

Colonial Macau

 
 

Peter Pan, Not

 
 

One More Time

 
 

Start the Day the Right Way

 
 

Night Moves

 
 

Hail to the Leader

It’s a little early to be singing praises but my guide deserves it, Alorino Noruega is a very good man. His easygoing demeanor and cheerful ways are such a pleasure. Many times on trips like this it is rush…rush! Here in Macau they encourage self- exploration and doing what you need. That is so rare on press trips and the other three writers will tell you the same.

One great skill this master has is the ability to find truly great restaurants and lunch today was great. O Capitulo’s Portuguese food was to die for. It was located in the Taipa area and we feasted. Testament to its quality is the fact that no one bolted, good food and conversation are appreciated everywhere.

Sing for Me

 
 

Music to my Ears

 
 

Jumping 58 Floors

It is time for a sanity check. Today I went off the world’s highest sky jump off the Macau Tower. I was traveling on a zip line at 47 mph down 764 ft, which is 134.51 higher than the second biggest jump located at the Sky Tower in Auckland. I was told that I was the only taker today. I can see why the first step is shear terror! From 58 floors the ground looks very far away. AJ Hackett an adventure creator mastermind and Waitomo Adventures designed the jump.

As the wind whipped past and they were checking my equipment I almost backed out. In fact it was so touch and go. When I landed at the base of the Tower my heart was beating rapidly, yet I let out a huge scream and high- fived the ground crew. I have been light headed ever since. I will display my certificate with honor it is proof of my insanity! Check pictures below.

The Big Jump

 
 

Macau Morning

Originally I though it would be great to see Hong Kong then a few days in Macau. Now I would say by all means see HK but head to Macau! Loving it here. It is not just casinos but so much more. The culture and mix of colonial and modern is a fusion that is hard to beat.

I especially love the temples, so mysterious so peaceful. Today I am heading to another, called Lin Fung Miu dating from 1592. Also to the gardens of Lou Lim that I have heard were great. Of course great food tops my list. No shortage of that so far. It is great to wake up knowing that there is so much to see!

Say a Little Prayer for Me

 
 

Holiday in Macau

As I was relaxing in my room at the Landmark Hotel last night in Macau I happened to be watching the Fox News and John Gibson’s show. The squabble about Christmas in the States was a topic that just seemed to get me. Not calling a tree in Boston a Christmas tree seemed so ridiculous. More so since I spent the day in old-town Macau where they are lighting up the city with decorations galore, including Government buildings. This in a area that is 85% Buddhist!

I e-mailed the show this:

Surprised that while working on a travel article here in Macau, China I am watching Christmas decorations being put up and getting, "Merry Christmas Season," from hotel staff constantly. Maybe I should celebrate Christmas where I am allowed! Who would have thought it would be China!

I awoke with the TV still on and it happened to be John Gibson’s show. Next thing I knew my e-mail was on the screen complete with my name. What a shock it was. I will celebrate anyone’s holiday and want to share mine, not political just practical. Sure enough as I left a restaurant after lunch today I was given a Merry Christmas by the owner. We could all learn a lot from the people of Macau!

Prayers in Macau

 
 

The Big Mac

Sometimes you just get a good feel walking around a place, that’s the feeling I got walking around the old town area in Macau. The mix of Portuguese colonial buildings with the Asian style was captivating. Sipping a latte on the Senado Square made for great people watching. That wasn’t really doable in HK.

In contrast I went down to the Sands Casino last night to have a steak dinner and it was excellent! The casino was busy but orderly, completely spotless. The wait staff was extremely friendly and efficient. I am looking forward to seeing more over the next few days.

The Other White Meat

 
 

Did Beijing Hear

While taking the ferry over to Macua I read some of the HK’s newspapers reports on yesterdays protest. As usual the tally of protesters was miles apart, the government claims 90,000 and organizers 250,000. From my view I got to go with the organizers give or take 30,000 marchers. Most interesting marcher was 86-year-old Chak Nuen-fai who strangely enough was jailed for three years in 1967 for printing seditious pro Beijing articles.

Most telling however was the quote from Basic Law expert Xu Chongde from Beijing. “If what you do is not the truth, no matter if it is tens of thousands of people, or even hundreds of thousands of people, it is still not the truth”.
Expect the birdcage to rattle! This information comes from the South China Morning Post.

Legislator "Long Hair" Kwok-hung

 
 

Bye Hong Kong

 
 

No Clowning Around

 
 

Tough Day at the Hong Kong Office

They have got to come out with a stronger Nicorette cause I just can’t keep up this pace! Hong Kong is killing me. Today I went by sampan across Victoria Bay, visited an illegal watch counterfeiter’s hideaway and attended Hong Kong’s biggest pro- democracy protest. Add on pushing through Kowloon’s Golden Mile and visiting two markets. I used to think that they kept us moving fast on press trips, now I’m kind of glad to be meeting up with mine tomorrow.

The protest was intense and larger than expected. It seemed the local cops certainly had their hands full, the buzz of helicopters overhead didn’t help. It was the first time I ever used my NATJA press pass. It got me through police and protest barricades. I thought it was crowded just walking around HK in general, today was just insane. The pictures I got will remind me forever of an incredible experience. At first I thought that the protesters just liked round eyes till I got back to the hotel and found a sticker stuck on my back. Shot down again!

I got back to the P suite at the Excelsior and totally spaced. Jumped in the hot tub bath and chilled. The roof of the hotel has one of HK’s best restaurants with a view called ToTT’s. I just got to stop looking out my own window and head up. I sure hope Max finds Belfast a bit more laid back than HK. Maybe not, he doesn’t need Nicorette. Check out his adventures on Readuponit.

Some of 500,000 Protesters Expected

 
 

Protest Picture Hong Kong

 
 

Marching on, Protest

Plans have changed; I will be back in Victoria Park for a protest march at 3PM. It seems that there are some differences between some Hong Kongers and Beijing. It is to be a pro-democracy march and I simply want to see it from sidelines. Will post more after events. It is the first march yet!

Sail Away

Below my lofty heights on the 23 floor at the Excelsior sits the Hong Kong Yacht Club. It was originally a shelter from typhoons. Amidst the stately yachts sits a slew of junks or sampans, the Hong Kong of the past. Walked down and watched the past in the present this afternoon. Found one willing to take me across the bay in the morning to Kowloon for a few HK dollars. I am finding Hong Kong has many layers to explore. Went to the temple dedicated to Tin Hau, goddess of seafarers to burn a stick of incense for the sail. You just never know!

Not Just any Junk

 
 

Hush Puppies

Went to the Blessing Leisure Center this evening for some relaxation. It was on the first floor of the Tai Kwun Mansion. Definitely not a mansion but it was a blessing. I basically got my feet pulled, prodded and poked. A 45 minute reflexology treatment over here is far different, they work those little piggys hard!

It was a shabby little hole in the wall yet entertaining, sort of like going to beauty parlor in a Bronx neighborhood. Just me and the ladies. Sometimes it hurt and I wondered if I would need a wheelchair tomorrow. Now the puppies feel just great and all the organs back in working order. Best $9 I have spent in a long time.

I'll Burn a Stick for You

 
 

Victoria Park's Tai Chi Devotees

As I walked into Victoria Park this morning I was wondering why people were waving to me. Then I realized it was just some folks doing their morning Tai Chi. All ages and genders making their moves, some with swords others with fans. I frankly was happy to be walking after my flight. Watching them built up my appetite so I headed to the Wan Chai Market area.

The market gave some new thoughts on fresh food. The food was swimming, squirming and clucking like mad. It was an amazing scene but sure helped me lose my desire for a big lunch! It was the start of my Hong Kong diet!

Signs

 
 

Rare Please