Melpa People Sing, PNG

A Thanksgiving Hat Trick

It has been months since I haven’t had packing on my mind, a continent to think about. I had a hat trick Thanksgiving weekend, connected with family and friends in a huge way, far beyond just the TG big meal. TG day was fantastic and just got me revved up. Friday night I went to one of my favorite places in Kingston, Ugly Gus’s to hook up with one of my oldest friends Laurie G to meet her new man. He was a great guy and her excitement about him was contagious. If I want to run into anyone it is usually done best at Gus’s, it is a local institution, and Steve the best tender in the world keeps me updated on all missed while on walkabouts.

Saturday night was just as great as some old and new friends came over to my house for a little dinner. One of my favorite places in the world is at the old farm table in front of the fireplace here in Cottekill. Cooking and chatter fill the hours and bottles of wine go down like dead soldiers, warmth prevails and stories unfold. I get a massive kick as guests check out the new photos hung and pieces dragged from around the world get a going over out. I am constantly reminded how lucky I am to see so many places in the world, I am just as lucky to have the people I love come around. I got a lot of catching up to do.

How Would the Sepik Tribes of PNG Celebrate our Thanksgiving

After a day spent eating various foods done every Nov. I thought about the clans and tribes visited last week in the Sepik area of Papua, New Guinea and wondered what they would think about our Thanksgiving. Undoubtedly they would really get into the fact that families and friends gather together to feast, they do that often within the close knit clans along the banks of the sensual and steamy Karawai River. Enter a village and there is no doubt they are close. Instead of turkey they would have some type of exotic, to us anyway, bird. Instead of mashed potatoes they would eat a dish made from the sago palm, in the highlands that would be substituted by huge sweet potatoes. No doubt that some sort of fish would fit in, fishing is a daily chore there. Kids would be running in packs there as here, I saw every indication of parental affection in every village visited. One big difference I imagine is that they have more than one holiday giving thanks. My last though was imagining the family hopping into a dugout canoe and heading out to shop on Black Friday. I pictured the pile up of canoes clogging the river and screaming paddlers fighting for a place to tie up. Nope that just doesn’t fit into their lifestyle and for that they should be thankful.

Breaching the Australian Quarantine Laws

I have breached Australian Quarantine Law and the customs official wasn’t to keen about it. My bag was ripped open and received a cavity search like a degenerate junkie. I did answer the customs form correctly, yes I did have wood and shell objects in my bag. That declaration got me sent to the x-ray line no problem so far. I gave the guy my bag containing a wooden statue and pulled the wooden carved snake from the other bag, so far so good. I was then asked if I had anymore stuff, I did and said so lifting my bag up to the table. I quickly lifted up some clothes as if to say here you go, not good enough. Soon clothes were flying out into the air. Oops, there was that bead necklace I forgot all about. Pissed off guy digs deeper, damn that knife made of bone decked in beads popped up. The penis gourds were next, that is embarrassing, on its own, but a trip to PNG just isn’t the same without buying the dinner table conversation pieces. The guy was truly pissed now and I sweating. The end result was I got served a form saying I breached section 70A and regulation 58, that could have been a fine of up to $AUD 60,000 or ten years. I read the brochure also given to me about the importance of just what can be brought into OZ. I fully now understand. My advice is to ship all those goodies found in the PNG jungles home from there. Luckily I was allowed to keep many of the treasures once tempers cooled. I apologize to the AQIS, go to this site to see what is allowed, save everybody a bad airport day!

Mead and Me on the Karawari River, PNG

Life on the Karawari River is much like it was centuries ago, a real step back in time. In a 1932 letter from the area Margret Mead wrote: “The natives are superficially agreeable, but…they go in for cannibalism, head –hunting, infanticide, incest, avoidence, and joking relationships, and biting lice in half with their teeth.”
I found smiling people very curious and proud. Children followed us around and enjoyed interaction. The tasks for living on the river takes hard work mostly by the women. Just a few miles from a village would be another one with different languages and customs. I have never ventured so far from the modern world.

Fishing on the Karawari River in PNG

The air is moist, sticky hot and heavy. The green of the Karawari River shifts as you turn every bend. Life on the rivers banks has been the same since for certuries, the sole purpose for the day is to gather what you need to survive. Fish is protien and that is scarce when living in the Sepik basin. It is women who fish, it is said that they are better at it here. Perhaps the colorful garb helps draw the catch, it certainly captured me.

The World's Best Airport, Hoskins on West New Britian, PNG

I have a new favorite airport, Hoskins in West New Britian, PNG. As our prop landed the volcanic mountains in the back ground was the first sign. The small wooden building was a hive of activity, da plane has arrived. The people waved as we walked a few feet to the baggage claim, a wooden table under an arbor, I actually could follow my bag’s trail from cargo hold to said table. That was it done and gone.
Leaving today was airport heaven, toss over my bag and out to the gardens outside. When it was time to board I followed some locals on a short cut through a barbwire fence after a quick stomp on my cig butt. No pushing, no snarls just smiles. It has been years since I enjoyed an airport, this one I loved!

Under The Spell of Papua New Guinea

After just 3 nights here in PNG I am convinced that the bounty of cultural and natural diversity would take a life time to discover. I knew that would be the case when I read facts such as, PNG has 25% of the world’s know languages. There is 700 species of birds and a whopping 37 different varieties of the Bird of Paradise and the world’s largest and smallest butterfly.
The real beauty is in the faces of the people here and not just the face painted variety, the villagers waving at our van as we pass is astounding. The servers at our lodges want us here and show it. Mix in some fantastic diving and treking and I feel a bit like I entered a place not of this earth.

My very first day was spent looking through a mask at colors I will never be able to name, much less the kinds of fish displaying the hues. Afternoon PNG kept giving as I sat in a small river that was heated the temp of a hot tub, the jungle sounds filled the air.

Today I will fly by small charter prop into the highlands far away from anything of my normal world. It will include stops in villages living by rules that have nothing to do with every day life in the modern world. Tribal conflicts still happen out there and the concepts we live by will fall away. The most important thing PNG has done for me so far is to feel like such a lucky man. The magic spell I am in will last a very long time.

Some Faces of PNG

It isn't fake our for tourist, this is how strong the tribal culture is here in PNG. Tomorrow we head out to the highlands and a very out in the wilds lodge. Posting may be impossible for the next few days. Will try my best!

Papua New Guinea Sky

PNG is amazing! Love the colors above and below the waters. Walindi Resort a must for divers! posting is slow so this is short.

sashi in Manhatten Beach with Jerry Prendergast

I had one of the best meals of my life at lunch today and with an old friend I haven’t seen in thirty years, yup one of those remarkable lunches. Jerry Prendergast is a foodie’s foodie, he develops restaurants around the world and works with the very big boys and I mean very. He goes through the whole development thing to finish and has in cities such a London, Tokyo, New York and various other points on the food map. His company is P&A and especially centered now in LA, he has worked with Leo, Toby and numerous other stars. He is known by the best resorts and plenty of the world’s finest restaurants.

We had an amazing Japanese lunch at a cool and sleek place called sashi in Manhatten Beach and our lunch was crafted by the amazing Chef Makoto who trained under the Master Sushi Chef Kumazaki. Sashimi Pizza was just one of the treats, below are a few more. The quality and creative mixed so perfectly that I would highly recommend traveling to sashi, I would fly back to LA for aother meal! In any case I would let Jerry pick the place.

Shishito Peppers
Sautéed Shishito Peppers in a Szechwan Sauce topped with Dried Bonito
Japanese Soft Taco Trio
Asian BBQ Steak, Ginger Pork, Spicy Chicken and Sesame Chili Salsa served in Handmade Corn Tortillas
The Hot Rock “Wagyu”
Thinly Sliced Japanese Wagyu Beef Presented “Table Side” with Special Sauces
http://www.sashimb.com/

Leg One of the Papua New Guinea Tour, Santa Monica

It was a tough start to the first leg of the PNG (Papua New Guinea) Tour 2009. If there is one thing you never want to hear while waiting to take off it is de-plane. Flight 201 to Lax from JFK had problems so we switched planes. Finally I made it to LAX and headed to my hotel on the beach in Santa Monica, more jet lagged than in my last 4 trips combined, domestic flying sucks in the US.
It was however a pleasure to be rambling around SM this afternoon. As a good friend of mine put it, "Californian's got bounce". I spent the afternoon dragging but watching alot of bounce. tonight I am keeping on the move and dining out in a meeting situation, fortunately revived from the Pacific air blowing in my wide open window.

Travel Writing Advice, Flexible

If there is one piece of advice I would give to those who want travel for writing I got just one thing to say, be flexible. Often you will not know exactly what time you depart and in this case for me a day earlier than I thought. An earlier flight out of NYC means a night in a hotel near JFK, I like it, and it is a routine I am used to. I also opted for one night in LA before heading to Papua, New Guinea. It works and I think I have a meeting there that I’ve been dealing with for a bit. In fact being in the air is really the only time that I shut down completely. With a new netbook from Gateway, I hope to take you all with me.

Close to fifteen years I have been hopping planes, I do not see that stopping anytime soon. It keeps me close to me and a host of fantastic people, just stay flexible, you will need to if sanity matters.

Lily Chuang, Best Guide in Taiwan

It has to be one of the toughest jobs around, guiding a small group of travel writers. Even tougher after they spent time running around mainland China. Our guide and Taiwan’s best is Lily Chuang, the lithe and amazing Lily. From the moment we meet her on landing in Taiwan the poor girl had to know the week would be no walk in the park, but her smile worked wonders. It is almost a question of physics that when a van filled with writers stops they all head in different directions, as if drawn magnetically. We all have different ideas of what we want to do and see. Lily did her best to please all factions.

Ever resourceful Lily tracked down myself and two other members of our ramshackle group on Facebook and made my day. I meet many guides in the course of a year, many great, but one of the best is Lily, a reason alone to head to Taiwan.

Chinese Creature Invades the Hudson River

Markets fascinate me, especially food markets. In Guangzhou China I was just plain blown away at the Wet Market especially when I was escorted by the Ritz Carlton’s Executive Chef Hoeksel. The many strange creatures were fascinating to this round eye and the Chef’s explanations took my visit over the top.

I was reading Hudson Valley magazine this afternoon and learned that the Hudson River has its own battle going on with a strange creature, the snakehead; The Snakehead is a fish that can grow up to three feet, has many teeth, and can survive and travel on land for up to four days. There is a lack of predators and it thought that the fish was brought here from Asia as part of the food market. Severe risk to the echo system is being battled by using rotenone, a poison extracted from the roots of tropical plants. Better is to find strange creatures in a food market in China.

Two Standout Lodgings in Papua, New Guinea

I got the final itinerary for Papua New Guinea today and it looks sweet! I went online to check out some of the lodges I will be staying in and it looks like two standouts are in the line up. The first is in a prime diving zone and is called Walindi Plantation Resort, bungalow style accommodations. The other is in the jungle and also looks great. To get to Karawari Lodge we will travel by chartered plane and small boat, no roads where we are going. It sits on a ridge above the Karawari River and the dusk is said to be amazing and your morning is greeted by Lorikeets and Eclectus Parrots. I have a few days to clear up back stories for GN before I leave, don’t want a back log when I head to a place few get to see.

Jackson Browne at UPAC Nov. 2009

Someone you lost track of long ago
Tell them that it's someone you need worse than
Anybody else you'll ever know

Clyde Jackson Browne was just fantastic last night at UPAC, in Kingston, NY, a troubadour with lyrics that move the heart. Years ago I remember late night drives all over the East Coast singing his ballads while just heading out, anywhere. That dates back from eight track times. To hear Clyde play acoustically was a cross between going back in time and yet hearing a whole new song that you just knew the words to. Sixteen guitars, an electric piano and one tuner was all that was traveling this route. Many thanks to my old AZ friend, Julie (Party) Parker for getting me a ticket and motivating me to go, after this gig I will not let old friends or music fade.

Time running out time running out
For the fool still asking what his life is about
Time running out time running out.

Fifty Four and There is so Much More, Past Mid- Field

I had a very strange thought today as I drove around Kingston; I tried to grow up here, never happened. I just never grew up! I have however expanded my world quite a bit. For some reason after I heard about some criminal getting sentenced to minimum twenty years, I bummed. I am fifty four and twenty years from now, well figure it out. I have gone beyond the half way line, packed a lot in though, wouldn’t have changed a thing. That thought really drove the bad mojo away, I got some great destinations coming up and a list of great people met on the road as well as here. I have tasted the best the world offers and not in a cell. By coincidence while working tonight the song Twenty Four and There is so Much More by Neil Young played on my computer, seemed like not long ago I heard it for the first time.

The Kimberly Hotel in NYC a Suite Deal

Things look sweet from a suite on the Kimberly Hotel’s 22nd floor, stepping out onto a balcony in NYC’s Eastside is a rarity. Pair that in with a spacious 2 bedroom suite done in style and you may be humming, My Way, like Frank Sinatra. The spa tub and bathroom flat screen TV is a great way to start your evening; the hotel’s location is perfect for those who want ease in reaching the best of NYC. The feel is intimate and private and the Kimberly a wonderful match to the Big Apple.

Ritz Carlton in Shenzhen China, WOW!

I am a true hotel freak; I love checking them out and see many in the course of a year. One of my new favorites is the Shenzhen Ritz Carlton in China. The huge living room and super large work area was such a plus. The roomy balcony over looking the pool and city, perfect for a place to sip a strong coffee from the machine in room.

One of the best meals of my trip was the Chiu Chow cuisine from the hotel’s Xingli Restaurant, the Cantonese specialties sublime and setting calm and elegant. One great feature of their Spa was the treatment rooms with complete privacy. If I were Dorothy I would be clicking my heels to return right now!

Meeting of Online Travel Minds at M. Silver and Associates in NYC

It was a pleasure sitting in the conference room of M.Silver PR this morning, six of the best online travel publishers as company. It was a face to face of those who love traveling and getting the word out. Some were old friends like the charming and decent dude Johnny Jet; the Jetster has always done me great! Hard working and thinking Tim Leffel the engine for this meeting another old bud was there. The maestro and online pioneer, Sean Keener was also in the mix. Of course my oldest pal and big boss Max Hartshorne was across the table.

I finally got to meet Greg Hubbs; his dad Clay was the first man to publish my very first article years ago. New also to me were Mike Richards and the Hobo, Andy Graham and great to do so. All of the sites are as different and diverse as the people I met, the common ground being travel. For us old timers it was an amazing feeling as we all recalled the days when online was travel publishing’s bastard child. That has changed and this prodigal son felt right at home! Check out the links and thanks to M.Silver for understanding that changes are constant.

The Tribe Gathers at the Herrick Guest Suites

Tonight I am in a apartment that is headquarters for Max and me during the VEMEX gathering, speed dating for travel writers and editors to Europe. We have a sweet apartment on Hudson Street in the West Village.No cooking though the place has everything you would need is there, out the window the full moon shines with NYC skyline, full moon and meeting other travel writers the aim. Love the place, Herrick Guest Suites.