Rasputin, Devil or Mystic

Raving mad, total lunatic or dumb as a fox, forget Bill’s intern and Bush’s madness, they pale compared with Rasputin. The basement room in the Yusupov Palace where he was poisoned then shot was a highlight of St Petersburg for me. His body was dumped in a canal and an autopsy showed he drowned. He was a debaucher, drunk and for awhile controlled Russia. The book Nicholas II: The Last Tsar by Edvard Radzinsky is a favorite book of mine, I bought Rasputin: The Last Word by the same author at the palace. A super read! The picture of me with the book was taken by buddy Lisa Sonne.

Home in the Country, Witticism Runs Rampent in the Hudson River valley

I walked to the country store this morning in the foggy Hudson Valley Oct. haze, cold and damp brings fog. As I filled my coffee cup, I was asked by the locals here in my little hamlet of Cottekill where I was recently! I regaled my stories for the boys of eating snake in China and borsht in Latvia. I told about the pits outside of Vilnius where 90% of the Jews in Lithuania were shot in mass killings. So one old boy said, “Not a good time huh”? Hard to call what I do a good time, interesting for sure. I tried to explain that it is not all Cracker Jacks and peanuts, life isn’t.

I truly live in one of the art creating places found in the lower 48, but I do love meeting those whose lives have been spent here, the witticism is comforting. If a leaf falls let it, might fall on deaf ears elsewhere. I however know exactly what is meant. I have lived in the big cities before but the vibe after that makes Jake cool… He can tell I am beat, I am!

Ritz Carlton, Guangzhou and the Fabulous Lai Heen Restaurant

It is all about Asia tonight, sparked by memories of a recent visit to the amazing Ritz Carlton, Guangzhou. One of the best things about my visit was a memorable meal in the lai heen room. The many courses were matched by various teas; they have close to a hundred different types. The large spinning center table was filled with delicacies that will long be remembered.

Cantonese cuisine is said to be the finest China, it certainly was well represented at lai heen, Dim Sum delight. One of my favorite things about Ritz properties is the fantastic dining venues, a rarity in the hotel world.

Jet Lag Blues, Wouldn't Change a Thing

For a long time I have never fought off the Devil called jet lag, the curse of travelers. Four continents in the span of a few weeks has apparently broken that chain of good luck, inevitably the pay back comes, like a velvet glove striking the skull. Still the bizarre blue and grey skies here in the Hudson River Valley keep the spacey blues at bay. The chance to actually cook my own meal and flick through channels is an undeniable pleasure; I am off the stage for a bit. The motley colored maple leaves clinging to my boots add sparkle to the wide pine planked floors as I dump firewood into the pine box. The glow of a warm fire reminds me that I am back. Duties simple and plain are the order of the day; New Guinea is in the future, simple pleasures please.

Great Company in Latvia, Lithuania and St Petersburg...

It is a small world we travel writers live in, three from this trip I met in Kenya a bit back. It sounds wonderful to truck around the world, care free, seeing amazing things. It is but the group you’re with makes all the difference in the world. This recent blitz through Lithuania, Latvia and St Petersburg was a wonderful experience, made so by traveling with great people.

I had my old buddy Lynn O’Rourke Hayes to keep me moving and smiling, such a pleasure! Peter Guttman was there to help me with my fascination of shooting pics, no better teacher than this award winning magician with a camera. The always up beat Lisa Sonne kept those moments of despair at bay, the smile always a delight. The one new face also was such a pleasure, Norma Davidoff, anytime or place, you were such a nice surprise. To all of you, many thanks!

A Night With Tchaikovsky at the Mariinsky in St Petersburg

Seeing Swan Lake at the Mariinsky Theater in St Petersburg, Russia was such an amazing experience, especially since we had the Tsar’s box directly over the stage, we sat so close that you could see the sheen on the ballerina’s necks. Amazing choreography in a setting that stunned, it put me back in time to the Imperial days of Russia. The theater was built in 1860 and was the starting point for many of today’s best loved ballets by such as Tchaikovsky and Mussorgsky. The place sparkled and the show amazing, a must even if ballet leaves you cold, you will not regret it!

A Visit to the Hermitage, St. Petersburg

It is said that if you spend a minute seeing every picture at the Hermitage in St. Petersburg it would take you nine years to finish. Every period of art is covered and treasures by masters on display. The Hermitage was also known as the Winter Palace or home of the Tsars. It was from the balcony that Nicholas II announced Russia’s entrée into WW I, almost four years to the day, he and his family were murdered.

St Petersburg, an Icy Night

An icy rain falls from my EMS hood of a thin jacket, all around me the people of St Petersburg scurry as I walk down the Nevskiy Prospekt, towards my temp home. Hard faces softened by neon and that cold rain. Smiles appear under hoods and umbrellas, the American also walks.

It is with fear that trudge further on after knowing I have been sated with a meal fit for a Tsar, caviar black and rich, placed back in the shell of an egg, forgotten times these days. No other faces have a caviar glow.The scruffy boots over rule the dress pants, we all smile, I walk in the icy rain.

Art Nouveau in Riga, Latvia

Riga is unparalleled in the amount of Art Nouveau Architecture, according to UNESCO. Walk any street in the centre of the city and you will feel a bit like Alice in turn of the century wonderland. Screaming faces and roaring lions can be found everywhere as themes. Some of the styles are National Romantism and Perpendicular. Elizabeth and Albert streets are teaming with treasures of a bygone era.

Cafe in Riga, latvia

Lunch with the New US Ambassador to Latvia. Good Pick Obama!

I have meet some very interesting people over my years of travel writing, a few princesses both with titles and some that just acted that way, that goes for princes also. Today I had the chance to have lunch with the US Ambassador to Latvia, truly a great experience. She is actually a seasoned State Department person, no moneyed contributor to Obama’s campaign. This makes so much sense to me! The assistant Public Affairs Officer, Davida A Baxter was also with us at the Gallery Park Hotel and a delight! Riga scores high with its beauty, style and an Ambassador that rocks!

The Hill of Crosses, Lithuania

Profound has a deeper meaning to me after a stop at the Hill of Crosses in the Lithuanian countryside. The small hill is covered with hundred of thousands of crosses and the thought that each carries hopes, wishes and thanks is mind boggling! The communists tried to bulldoze down this hill of hope but were never able to keep it down. It would just keep springing back. On Sept 7th 1993 a visit from John Paul II only revved up the process and all that pass usually stop to place a cross, all religions and all beliefs. It seemed to me to carry a touch of some pagan beliefs, but then again what religion isn’t based a bit on that. That in itself is profound.

The Karaite in Lithuania, Magical

"The universe is full of magical things, patiently waiting for our wits to grow sharper." --Eden Philpotts

This was certainly the case today as I explored the area around the castle of Trakai today, besides the amazing castle the town is the center of the Karaims, ethnic Turkic adherents of Karaite Judaism. They came 600 here years ago via the Crimea to act as soldiers for a powerful lord here. They were granted rights and have survived centuries of Lithuanian upheavals.

Much of the beliefs and traditions were told to us by Jurij Shpakovski in the Kybynlar Restaurant over Turkish style coffee and treats. His grace and style were terrific and the experience amazing. The universe is indeed full of magical things…

The Killing Fields of Lithuania, Paneriu

It was painfully cold under a clear blue sky this morning about 18 Km outside of Vilnius, Lithuania. Our pain soon seemed so trivial as the horrors done by Nazi and Lithuanian collaborators was peeled before our eyes in a large empty pine forest called Paneriu. The mist swirled up from the ground as if spirits were ascending, fitting as over 130,000 Jews were taken to pits here to be shot.

Our guide Rachel Konstanian-Danzig brought an amazing feel to our look at hell on earth as we saw the pits and trenches. She lost her father and most of her relatives. In fact between 90% to 95% of all of Lithuania’s Jews were murdered. That was such an unbelievable thought to comprehend in the cold dark forest. Later we went to the Jewish Tolerance Museum, an uplifting experience as it features Jewish art and culture in an amazing space, a testament and tribute to all those who died so needlessly and in a horrific abomination of human character. If Iran’s Anmadinejad needs proof of the Holocaust I suggest a cold day in the Forest of Paneriu.

Reaching Vilnius, Lithuania

A new country and city is always a thrill and Vilnius, Lithuania certainly fills expectations. Lithuania was the first country to assert its independence from Mother Russia back in the early 90’s. The old city center is filled with architectural wonders and the city from my balcony of the Reval Hotel Lietuva is a pleasing site. Slumber comes with a vengeance after flying from China, NY then Helsinki to Riga and finally to Vilnius but the end result looks so very promising!

Best Flight on Cathay Pacific, and a Great Movie, Fifty Dead Men Walking

My flight home from Hong Kong yesterday on Cathay Pacific was one of the most pleasant flights I have had in a longtime. My business class pod cozy and service fantastic! In fact I did what I seldom do on a flight, watched a movie I have long heard about, Fifty Dead Men Walking. It was a fine film directed by Kari Skogland, a true story about Marty McGartland, a 22-year old Irish fence Catholic who worked for the British Special Branch during the troubles.

It took me back to one of my first solo trips, back to N Ireland, the lines were still drawn and my naivety was packed into a rental car and driven to Belfast. I remember the helicopters and Brit troops patrolling. I spent one night in a pub known for IRA activity and the next in a Loyalist bastion. I returned last year and was so happy to see the change in Belfast, it gives me hope.

Ritz Carlton in Guanzhou, a Feminine Hand

z Carleton, Guangzhou, a Feminine Hand

Newsweek proclaims that despite a worldwide economic melt, China had a very good year. From my perfect perch on the 35th floor of the Guangzhou Ritz Carlton, I can believe it. Below and above new buildings are sprouting like mushrooms after a rain. This part of Guangzhou is called Pearl River New City and it will indeed be a new city.

On another front the RC is headed by a new woman GM, the energetic Michelle Caporicci, a southern California native. That news has spread like wildfire in the media here. Things are changing in China and Ritz is playing a leading role here, first as an anchor for New City and second by the high posting of a most talented GM. My experience here has given me plenty of face time with her. A more hands on GM, I have never met. Things here are certainly looking up, literally.

http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/Guangzhou/Default.htm

Kent's Wriggling Lunch

Food is a Cantonese talking point--everything is eaten here, no waste. It is said that in Guangzhou nothing with four legs is not eaten except a table. That means every part of every animal. A trip to the fish market is like a strange biology class, there are things here that I have never seen before!

The snake in the picture ended up specially cooked, imagine getting the serpent home in your shopping bag and alive at that! The health benefits are stressed but not always convincing. I may just hug my pillow and do a lot of strange dreaming tonight!

Ritz Carlton, Cathay Pacific and Guangzhou A Winning Combination

Sometimes when I am flying half way around the world I get a little anxious, just a bit. This time though I have nothing but great vibes about my trip to China tomorrow. When you have Ritz Carlton and Cathay Pacific doing the planning, your mind should be at ease. The long flight to Guangzhou will be made much easier with totally flat seats and 300 movie choices, not to mention great wine and food choices.

The Ritz Guangzhou is known as world class, what Ritz isn’t? The rooms have a bird’s eye view of the opera house and mighty Pearl River. A winning combination that is such a win, win.

My Photos Hang with Joan Miro, an Honor, Milton Greene a Bonus...

I have been donating photos for various causes in the Hudson Valley for the last few years, and it has been a pleasure. I always wonder where they end up, and today I saw that some are hanging in good company, Joan Miro for one. In a wonderful Hudson Riverside townhouse in a small city resides one of the best collections of collectables I have ever seen, in fact the space was bought for that reason. Milton Greene’s Marilyn works stand side by side with artifacts from Mae West and Mickey Mantle. Natural works also fit in wonderfully. The chance to wonder, look and touch was a great prelude to time on the Hudson, with some more work requested, to have several photos included is such a rush!. Sports money often leads to art, it is an American win, win.

Neruda's Home and my Favorite Neruda Poem

Since recently visiting Pablo Neruda's home in Valparaiso, I have been consumed with reading his poems. I think I have found my favorite from The Captain's Verses.

"If You Forget Me" by Pablo Neruda
I want you to know
one thing.

You know how this is:
if I look
at the crystal moon, at the red branch
of the slow autumn at my window,
if I touch
near the fire
the impalpable ash
or the wrinkled body of the log,
everything carries me to you,
as if everything that exists,
aromas, light, metals,
were little boats
that sail
toward those isles of yours that wait for me.

Well, now,
if little by little you stop loving me
I shall stop loving you little by little.

If suddenly
you forget me
do not look for me,
for I shall already have forgotten you.

If you think it long and mad,
the wind of banners
that passes through my life,
and you decide
to leave me at the shore
of the heart where I have roots,
remember
that on that day,
at that hour,
I shall lift my arms
and my roots will set off
to seek another land.

But
if each day,
each hour,
you feel that you are destined for me
with implacable sweetness,
if each day a flower
climbs up to your lips to seek me,
ah my love, ah my own,
in me all that fire is repeated,
in me nothing is extinguished or forgotten,
my love feeds on your love, beloved,
and as long as you live it will be in your arms
without leaving mine

Camenere, Bordeaux's Loss is Chile's Gain

I have heard of DNA testing in solving murders, paternity and even kidnapping, but this DNA test was off the vine. In 1994 the variety of Camenere, Chile’s signature grape was tested, it was thought to be a variant of merlot. Not so, it was discovered to be what was thought to be lost forever, Grand Vidure vines. Those vines were thought to be wiped out by phylloxear in Bordeaux in the late 19th century. Apparently cuttings were brought to Chile where they thrived. The wine is delicious with chocolate overtones and higher alcohol content.