"The Week", Heading to the Calgary Stampede

In Calgary it is known simply as, “The Week”. To people everywhere is is known as a city’s celebration of its Wild West roots. It is not just the cattlemen that slick up in their best boots, oilmen, bankers and citizens alike join in a raucous event. It is said that even the most uptight will find themselves screaming Yahoo! It is also said that nine months after the Stampede the birth rate in Calgary rises, dramatically.

These bovine VT beauties pictured above wouldn’t stand a chance up in Calgary during the Stampede. I have also got to wonder how this east coast, milk toast, country boy will handle events in Canada’s biggest cow town. It has been years since I sauntered up to the bar in my old cowboy boots!

Brazil Beats the US in Confederation Cup 2009

As a high school soccer player I remember vividly the huge crowds the football team got to their games. I also recall how when living in Scottsdale every Saturday the local school grounds were packed with kids playing soccer. Hell the term soccer mom was used constantly during the Clinton years.

The final Confederations Cup game in South Africa was a stinging loss for an amazing US Team, 3 to 2. Brazil took the title. The reason is clear if you have ever been to Brazil, the game is played everywhere. From huge stadiums to garbage strewn alleys the game is played. I happened upon this pick up game in Porto de Galinas this spring. The setting was perfect and the play inspirational.

The Blue Eye and Worry Beads

Superstition runs deep in Greece, evil eye and bad wishes can be warded off though. The blue eye protects and just in case you do not believe it, the worry beads relieve the stress.

Fantastic Greek Food

The Greeks like to eat and eat well. Before massive plates come out there is the matter of Meze, little plates of food to go with drinks. Sardines, olives or keftedes (little meatballs seasoned with mint) can be found everywhere. Actually I found more effort put into these little dishes than major meals in other countries.

Feta is the best known cheese but some other great ones are Kasseri and Misithir, both superb. Fish is the king of Greek cuisine and in seafood places you will often get Tarama salta or fish row salad as a starter. Of course the main dishes are varied but two of my favorites were Kalamarakia (squid) and Garides (Shrimp) cooked with olive oil and lemon. Matt Barrett has a wonderful site on all things pertaining to Greek food.

A Quick look at Hydra Harbor, Greece

Last Day in Athens

It has been one hectic last day here in Athens as I returned to some sights and dropped by some new ones. From the Plaka to the upscale Kolonaki, changing of the guard to a lunch of Gyros with Tzatziki, miles walked to work it off. I ended with a huge up hill hike to get back to my room at the St George Lycabettus.

There is time for a dip in the roof top pool with the Acropolis changing colors in the setting of the sun. Ah, Athens you are so gracious and beautiful! Thanks to the GNTO and FB friends Karen Davis Athanassiadis and Ellen Peruso for sending suggestions and keeping me company from far away.

The New Acropolis Musem, Holding the Marbles

The new Acropolis Museum is now officially open and was the reason for my visit to Athens. The building designed by New York based architect Bernard Tschumi and is ultra modern with the building lending itself to light and space. Most interesting however were the columns that allow the archeological remains below to be seen yet protected.

The Museum also brings up the point of the Elgin Marbles that are in the British Museum. Many believe that after 207 years they should be returned to Greece and placed in the new museum. The basis of them not being returned were lack of a suitable viewing space. That argument is now finished

Father's Day in Greece

While listening to, “why must I always explain “by Van the Man and “the magic rat” by the Boss, I also listened to some Third Eye Blind tonight. While my son Chance is so over them I am not, I was late to listen. I thought about a tow headed blond kid being the only gringo on a many of Mexico’s beaches, a kid whose smile always delighted me. I still smile at thoughts of it.

I haven’t had much time to spend with Chance lately that happens when you get older and less fun. I got a great email from him yesterday that made me think a lot about him. He has grown up and lives his own life now, but still to me is that kid! That one that shines brightly and full of joy and wonder, the one that has grown into a fine young man, may you reach your dreams.

Greece Paced Just Right

After several nights of hobnobbing and press events in Athens it feels great to be just chilling. The pace set by the Greeks was fast, furious and fun. Dinners often stretched into a one or two A.M. event, last night we were still sitting in the plaka outside till the wee morning hours after a concert of tango stars from the 50’s in from Argentina. The setting from the show stunning as it was the oldest theater in Athens and under the Parthenon and Acropolis.

Tonight I watch the glow from a sinking sun and contemplate just what fish grilled in olive oil to pick, the wine a choice from years ago when I traveled the islands here. The boats bob and I sway to music from the itouch. The travel styles polar opposite, both a part of my life, I lift a glass to you all!

Life on Hyrda

The sea is a way of life in Greece and Athens is its terminus, hundreds of ships come and go. In about an hour and a half you can get to the island of Hydra soak in island life. The town has fishing boats and a harbor side that will delight the hardest core sun worshipper. Donkeys and fishermen seem to be the only working creatures inhabiting the island all the rest seem as if in a state of island bliss.

Morning Thoughts in Athens

It can become a bit intimidating, being on the road a lot, there are warning signs that cannot be ignored. Your suitcase gets a personality and even a gender, you are attached. You live for your email and facebook messages instead of taking a walk around after dinner. You count on wake up calls but you awake before they come. City maps aren’t needed because you are taken to see the sites is a huge tip off.

It is then that you have to think how lucky you are, and appreciate what is on your plate. The world is a huge buffet and you are pigging out! Places most dream of seeing are there before your eyes. You realize that you know thank you and please in several languages and you use them. You talk with people that you normally would pass by and a smile is really a wonderful thing to experience, as it should be. It is a beautiful sunny morning here in Athens and the Acropolis is right out my window. The sea is just past and blue as an albino cats eyes. The hostess at breakfast asks how you are feeling and it feels like she cares. When on the road it is the little things that gain importance as well as the amazing things you see. You promise yourself to remember that for the whole beautiful day.

Down Time In Athens

I am sitting on my balcony with a few spare hours, which means the next 2 days will be filled with events for the new Acropolis Museum opening, press first. Tonight is the formal dinner with the Minister of Tourism and just us.

Lunch in the Platka (old city) was a taste bud delight with feta, olive oil, cukes and grilled shrimp. After we all headed out on our own and I chose to explore the Platka. The way of life here is slow paced and relaxed. Cafes filled with people and strollers galore.

I am revealing in the changing colors of the Acropolis as I sit and write, every few minutes the whole city changes below. The rare few hours of alone time are well used.

Hotel in Athens

I am loving my hotel here in Athens, the St George Lycabettus. The view from my balcony over looks the Acropolis and the roof top pool fabulous. fast paced trip but the city is just stunning!

David Farley's Irreverent Curiosity

I had fully intended to take Farley’s new book An Irreverent Curiosity with me to Greece but I made the mistake of starting it this weekend. Bad move, I plowed through it and had a ball! The book is all about a man’s obsession with one of the Catholic religion’s most unusual relics, the foreskin of Jesus. For a few years I’ve been bugging David about the book, it was well worth waiting for. Only he could make one of Italy’s strangest towns seem somehow sane, at least with a few bottles of red. A great read! Check out more good reading at the Restless Legs site, better yet head down to Lolita’s in NYC and meet some of today's best writers.

Ward Todd, Business in China

Out of the box, that’s the way I like it. It is also just one reason I am so impressed with the President of the Chamber of Commerce in Ulster County, Ward Todd. Ward is with a delegation right now in China, representing some local business people from Ulster. Imagine us selling to China, what a great idea, and one that is totally possible. China is poised to be a if not the wave of the future. At least as far as consuming goes.I have been there and seen the future.

From Beijing to Tianjin and points in between Ward is showing our goods and a better rep I couldn’t think of. A man who looks forward is never left behind!

Jet Lagged

The question I get asked most often recently is all about jet lag, that nasty byproduct of moving across time zones. The truth is I rarely get it, I do not have time. Today however I am feeling a bit off kilter and slow. I tried to get right into the time frame, up early, coffee and even a little lawn mowing. Right now after a small nap, I nod at my desk even after a cup of coffee. It has been a very busy winter and spring with trips that were far flung, Queensland, Italy, Brazil, China and yesterdays return from Germany. I am sure I missed a couple, but I can always go to past blog pages to figure it all out.

In a couple of days I head to Greece for the opening of the New Acropolis Museum and some gala events. I will be getting a tour of the museum by Mr. Bernard Tschumi the American who designed the New Acropolis Museum. The time for jet lag is limited to today and today only, too much to see out there.

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Karl Marx's House

His words changed the world yet he was somewhat a flop. He dragged his family through hell and loved the good life. He was Karl Marx and he was born in Trier, Germany. His birth house is a museum and heavily visited. The most devoted pilgrims to the museum are the people of China. It shows as the neighborhood is filled with Chinese restaurants and shops. Move over Mao.

A Visit With Moselle Royalty

It is all about the slate in Moselle wine country and Mayor Berg makes that clear several times. Far below the Moselle River meanders and a patchwork of various shades of green lay. Those poor vineyards are just flatlanders, filler juice for lesser wines. At the top of Europe’s steepest vineyards I sit amongst royalty, the vines that sit in slate and suck down sun, their fragrance deep.

In the soft blowing wind Mayor Berg pours me a glass of straw colored Riesling, I sip he smiles, and he knows what my reaction will be. I try to hold back my joy, useless. All too soon I hop on the wagon attached to a very small engine and head down the steep slope, my visit with royalty is over.

Tough Day Made Easier, Meeting Old and New Friends

We all made the decision to bike today even though the total of yesterday was 35 miles. Today a small 25 miles but a group bonding event, tough times bring out the inner person. None of us except Becca are anywhere near being bikers. We stopped for lunch in a quaint village and got bread and cheese, simple to match our moods. Huge thunder storm passed by as we sheltered in an old barn, man against nature it seemed. Even as I sit now in Treir huge hail is battering my window.

One great part of this trip was the chance to travel again with my friend Becca, a very talented writer. I have had the privilege to have traveled with Becca several times before and her upbeat attitude is always uplifting. Better yet is the chance to meet her daughter Lizzy, a lovely young lady soon heading to Smith College. There is something so cool meeting a daughter of a colleague, one whose name I have heard for years. Thanks ladies for making a tough day easy.

Chioces on the Moselle River

I had some options to consider today so I do what I always do when faced with choices, I walk. Sometimes when I’ve been on the road a lot even the smallest things take consideration, morning is the time to handle things and think. I had a most pretty place to stroll along the Moselle, even in the steel colored morning. Swans followed as I headed down current away from the city. The dark waters in a chocolate hue were soothing and relaxing and I was enjoying my own company. That in itself was great, I spend a lot of time with me so I need to keep better in touch. I started with the big things on my mind and worked my way down to the smaller issues, bike or boat? If only all choices could be so petty. Still deciding on the easy ones makes the hard ones easier.

Best Hotel In Moselle!

The hard part of staying in a fantastic hotel is that you are alone; I want to share this one! Romantik Jugendstil Hotel Bellevue in Traben-Trarbach, Germany so fantastic!!

The Mosell River Twists

The propeller twists leaving a foamy tail as we head up the Moselle River. On the banks are small villages and a patch work of vineyards. Even under grey and sometimes weeping skies the Moselle Valley can uplift you. The several steaming cappuccinos on the boat’s bow fills up the hours that pass by quickly. At the end of the day a stunning meal of perfectly roasted veal and asparagus spears paired with delicious Rieslings lets you down easy. From my porch the lights of the village of Cochem hypnotize and the day ends. In the morning it is further on up the Moselle via bike.

Heidi the Cowgirl Cabbie From Frankfurt

I have arrived safely in Boppard Germany thanks to my cowboy booted cabbie, Heidi.The buck skin jacket and pack of West cigarettes also a tip off to her love of the American West. As the first to arrive of my small group I had to track my big boned beauty at the Frankfurt Airport for a one hour ride to the sticks. Boppard was so out there that Heidi’s GPS was screaming in German. We had a fascinating conversation on the way with her very little English and my minimal German, she has a son, that is pretty much all we could piece together. We did stop though at my request for some coffee and that broke the ice. We are bonded, especially since I went into the train station to track down the Bellevue Hotel for her. Heidi then dumped me off and fled back to Frankfurt!

Boppard I have since discovered is a pretty cool little town on the banks of the Rhine and my view of the river from the hotel is great even in the pouring rain. I dumped my bags and strolled through the town making stops to let the Boppardians know I was in around. I counted 34 morgen (good mornings) between the 1 Euro Shop and my café of choice. I think I am going to like it here. If not perhaps Heidi could pick me back up, if her GPS starts working.

Meeting Friends

It is that time again, repack and go back out into the world. With a little over a week at home I am surprisingly ready to go. There is though that little bit of self niggling that often surfaces when in the middle of a traveling marathon. The fear that I am missing something, home or friends perhaps, I often have friends tell me that I never go out anymore. I do, just lately it happens to be thousands of miles away. I have learned over the years like another great friend of mine that talking to strangers is a great way to make friends. Even if it is for a brief moment, it helps so very much!

So Many More to Go

Travel Writer's Cure for Jet Lag

"You're Amazing! Don't you ever stay home? I'd still be recovering from jet lag
if I'd gone to China - WAIT - is that your cure for jet lag? Like a deep sea
diver decompresses slowly - you go back 6/8 hours to recover? I went to France
right after I got home from Macau - it works!
Safe Journeys!"

I had to chuckle when I got this note from writer Richard Frisbee. He might have figured it all out. In truth I am just doing what I do. As Jimmy Buffet said, "don't try to describe the ocean if you've never seen it".If your going to travel write, travel! I have met some of the greatest people and seen some amazing places. That was a dream of mine 15 years ago. It can get tiring and it really is work, perhaps some down time will come.

Jessie Lathem is Leaving the Building

Le Belle France has some tears falling, media relations coordinator Jessie Lathem is leaving after 2 ½ years, guiding many through the wonders of France. Jessie is moving to Vienna to take up some new freelance and academic pursuits and I couldn’t be happier for her, I will celebrate her choice as we all will. My only wish is that Katherine Johnstone isn’t mired down too badly!

Business in China

I am having lunch with Ward Todd and Jean Miller Spoljaric today; Ward is the head of the local Chamber of Commerce and Jean an old friend is a new travel writer. China is the topic that both want to discuss. I though a lot about it last evening, just what I would have to say.

Would the Hyatt’s marvelous hotels with their modern rooms interest anyone? Perhaps the rapidly disappearing hutongs (old village style areas) would be of interest? Food is a question I have been asked most about. As usual I went through pictures taken that seem to get lost in the culling of my favorites. I found myself going back to the one above.

While walking through an upscale hutong I snapped a photo of the door of a cigarette shop. The hand shot out as I took the shot to block it. The scowl from the owner was one of the few I received in China. I am not sure why he objected, the shop looked prosperous. In a way I equate it to business in China, look but not to closely. Buy but on our terms. I am sure that on their trips to China, Ward and Jean will reach their own conclusions, China demands it.

China Sticks Like Glue

I hate wearing hats but this one I got in China feels different, more a piece of apparel or a statement. With the Tiananmen Square anniversary coming up all the news I really hear is China, it is everywhere. The protests were back in 1989. Politics, economy and travel seem to revolve around one fascinating piece of real estate. Even my reading choices are scooped up by the place; Oracle Bones by Peter Hessler has made time in airports fly by. One thing for sure, China sticks like glue, super glue in fact!

Flying Air France

Every time I hurtle down a runway, I am amazed that the heavy metal object I am in will lift off. That I will travel a long distance to a place that I have read or dreamed about and get there in a few hours. Jet travel is to me one of the most amazing of mankind’s inventions and has changed the face of the world. I was saddened by the report of an Air France flight going down off the coast on Brazil this morning, heart broken over the thoughts of families that will have to deal with the lose of people they loved.

I have flown Air France many times over that last 15 years and have always had a wonderful experience. Once I even had the opportunity of landing in the cockpit of a Concorde on arrival in Paris. I think of all the lovely smiles of flight crews that have made my experiences so rewarding. Sometimes I forget just what is involved in my ability to traipse around the world, not today.