Low Priced Lobsters, Now in Maine

One of the few items that are going down in price is lobsters, at least in Maine. In many places there the price is equal to deli sliced turkey. Unfortunately for us non- New Englanders the low cost will not be found else where. The summer lobster catch in Maine is mostly the soft- shelled so shipping the fragile critters is tough. The falling demand and good harvest has created the low prices according to the AP. I cannot help but wonder about the lobstermen I talked to recently when coasting up the coast. The price of fuel was fueling some great anxiety. There was a time in Maine when state prisons served lobster several times a week to the dismay of the prisoners. In many of the mansions the servants also suffered the same abuse. I can only hope that when I return to Cozy Cove Cottage in Oct. I can suffer as well, nothing sweeter than a cold water lobster caught that very day!

Rondout Valley Growers, Sweet Corn, Sweet Life

It is sweet corn season here in the Rondout Valley, said by many to be some of the best in the world. The tradition of growing in the local bottomlands goes back 2000 years here and the soil is perfect thought the growing season is short. The floodplain of the Rondout stretches from Ellenville to the city of Kingston, the soil is replenished yearly. I have had visitors from other areas where farming corn is also a tradition and they all leave with a bushel of the local kernels. It isn’t just corn that thrives in the Valley, vegetables and flowers also blossom in the short summer season. There is a group of farmers that have started an organization that supports local growth and many of its members go back generations such as the Davenports and Gill. With the Catskill Mts. as a back drop the fertile fields still yield bountiful crops. Check out Rondout Valley Growers for more info.

Mombasa Market, Real Life Foods

On my way home from Davenport's farm stand this evening I thought about the various markets I have been to this past year. While I love the European markets with their perfect looking produce, one market visit comes to mind in Mombasa. Entrails of various meats hung like counter weights off huge hooks, cheaper cuts for the masses. The smell of blood and spices strangely encourage the taste buds. In the heat of the Equator things must sell fast and they do. Hawkers pull and tug till you examine their goods. In Africa nothing is wasted, people's lives depend on cheap cuts, no Big Macs filled with chemicals, just pure protein. The market isn't for the weak of stomach but it will linger in the mind.

Chopin's Heart, Pickled in Poland

While finishing my Warsaw piece I came across a new tidbit of unusual information, it involves Fredric Chopin. Chopin requested that his heart be sent to Poland after he died, it was and was enshrined in a pillar at Warsaw’s Holy Cross Church. He was 39 when he died and the heart was preserved in alcohol and sent in 1849. During the tough times of WWII the heart was removed for safe keeping. In 1951 before being returned the heart was examined and found perfectly preserved. Recently scientists wanted to remove the heart to test for DNA. The reason was to determine if Chopin died of cystic fibrosis as opposed to tuberculosis. The Polish government doesn’t think it good enough cause to pull out the heart of the revered Chopin. The alcohol thought used to preserve Chopin’s ticker, cognac. One can only guess that the French used what was handy before sending his heart from France to Warsaw.

Doing My Best Jack Nicholson in Val d' Isere

Dan's Papers and the Lincoln Eagle, a Newspaper Trend is Again Proven

While Lil did volunteer work at UCCC for a play yesterday evening I sat on my deck feeling a bit guilty. Until, that is, I dove into a book by Dan Rattiner, the title is In the Hamptons. It covers Dan’s experiences building up Dan’s Papers in the playground of the rich and powerful. What I loved about the book was the time period when as a kid I summered in my folks’ simple house at the end of Mako Lane. Well before glitz and glam was locked into the equation. Many years after I went back out to the Hamptons for a year and a half to work in some restaurants and relive my younger beach days, I even got to know Dan a bit.

More interesting than the book’s glimpses into the famous was Dan’s free paper idea. Dan’s Papers might have been the first free or give away paper in the US. In the beginning Dan had a tough time getting advertisers because the concept of a free paper just wasn’t fathomable. Time proved Dan spot on and the paper has spread and grown beyond belief. It made me think about our local give away, the Lincoln Eagle and its success over the last year. Advertisers are lining up and everywhere I go people ask when the new issue is coming; I do a travel column in the paper. While some longtime sold papers are cutting staff and columns and reprinting AP stories, the LE is concentrating on the people that live and visit the area. Straight news is so easily accessed online and on TV anymore. I am not sure if Dan realizes it but his vision has spread and so has the circulation and reach of the Lincoln Eagle.

Hudson Valley Connoisseur, a Great Read

There is a new (for me) magazine about the Hudson River Valley called Hudson Valley Connoisseur that I picked up today. Love it, it is packed with great stuff about my area and has some fantastic pictures and writing. Once again I wonder why I have never written about the area as I was born here and after some years away returned. I love my secret places discovered over the years and perhaps hold them as such, still it is time.

In the new issue is a great piece about the city of Kingston where I was born, went to school and owned a restaurant for a bit. The article by Kathleen Wereszynski Murray does a great job of covering NY State's first capital and third settlement . I opted on my return back a few years ago to live in the country, I bought an old house from 1845 in Cottekill. I never for a minute have regretted my decision to move back to the Valley. With assignments in foreign countries, I love my down time on my return. Even job wise as a senior travel editor for GoNOMAD.com and correspondent for Around the World Travel Radio in California and Australia I never have reported about the Hudson Valley, I think Hudson Valley Connoisseur however does the job perfectly. Still I may just have a few secrets.

WCSH- 6 NBC and Rich Brooks Pick, Be Our Guest, as a Site to See

I got sent a funny link today concerning this blog, Be Our Guest. Rich Brooks a web designer and guru did a TV travel segment in Portland Maine for WCSH-6 NBC’s 207 program a while back. I was happy to see that this blog was one of three blogs mentioned as a place to go for interesting takes on travel. Tim Leffel’s Cheapest Destinations and Smarter Travel were the other blog picks. The segment also covered other sites such as search and government travel sites. I had a great deal of fun watching the segment, thanks Rich Brooks and WCSH- 6 for including Be Our Guest.

French Alps, Cool Picts on a Hot Day

The last thing I like to do before sending a piece on to GoNOMAD is check out photos taken while at the destination. With the heat and humidity having been on high the last few days pictures of the French Alps were soothing, in the reach of AC anyway. Often pictures also help me to remember details that I might have missed. The radio spot on Around the World Travel Radio is on the archives and the printed story will be soon.

The Dills for Dinner

It is one of my favorite places on the planet, the Dillon’s yard. Last night we had dinner at old friends Mike and Joan’s house, I’ve known them for so long it is hard to remember just how many years. The sloped back yard has been the scene of many celebrations as well as a place to retreat during tough times. The gardens are truly works of art as well as the source great produce. Sitting on the deck and sharing stories present and past is the peak of summer’s good times. Great food is always assured and catching up a delight. As the saying goes, “old friends are like gold”!

Rosendale Street Festival

I snapped the photo of the deer early this morning on my way to snap a photo of the flag sculpture that hangs off of the railroad trestle near RT 213. It only flies for one reason the Rosendale Street Festival, a lively event. The street are filled with people enjoying music and food, better yet each other.

Blogging for the Birds

I set up the office on the deck today and am simultaneously working on a few pieces at a time. I have never done that before but it seems to work. The day was fading and the birds headed to the feeder, I headed for my camera. I am still working out using a digital SLR but sure am having fun with it!

Eastport's Artist in Residence, Art for Art's Sake

Kingston, N.Y. is a scant 6 miles down the road from home; it is what we in Cottekill call the,”big city”. It was also voted in the top five artists communities in some magazine I do not remember the name of, but it was a national. I love meeting artists when I travel and I met a great one recently in Eastport, Maine. Jim Levendosky spends a few months there every year in a rented store front, making and selling his art. It is also his temp home and studio. Lil and I spent some time with Jim and his friend on a foggy evening recently with a big smile and his NPR tee shirt; I knew I would like him straight away. One of Jim’s latest works was a scrimshaw motorcycle gas tank, it was just incredible. One of Jim’s ambitions is to be Jay Leno’s Artist in Residence, Jay would indeed be a lucky man.

Ulster County a Bit Like Tuscany, The New York Post and I Agree

I went to a great dinner party last night, a fantastic night sitting on the bluestone patio behind an 18th century stone farmhouse. As the sunlight faded the conversation turned from the world’s problems to how lucky we all were to live in such a beautiful area. I was asked what places I have visited most resembled Ulster County , NY . I though awhile and answered Tuscany.

I was surprised when reading the NY Post Magazine this morning that new weekend resident and fashion designer Edoardo Mantelli, stated the same thing in his interview. From the pictures I knew just the house he bought, another 18th century Dutch stone house down the road. I only wish I could have expressed my love for the area as well as he did. As I headed to a couple of local farm stands to get fresh corn, flowers and some wine it occurred to me that shopping for dinner here in Ulster County was again very similar to Tuscany. Welcome to the neighborhood Edoardo, you fit in just perfectly!

MaMaison Hotels, My Choice

At a dinner party I was asked about hotels, I love checking them out. I had the chance recently to try out two hotels from MaMaison Hotels and was very impressed. The MaMaison Andrassy Hotel in Budapest and MaMaison Le Regina Hotel in Warsaw went far beyond my expectations. Both were done up in fantastic design and layout with fantastic service. They have other properties such as one in Prague that I have checked online. If you are heading to the Central or Eastern Europe MaMaison would be my choice.

Naming a Lobster Boat in Maine

I enjoyed my very early breakfasts with the lobstermen of Maine but it took a bit before I could get them to open up. After a few nods I got some, “mornings”. Soon I could ask questions and one was where the names of their boats come from. Names like Endurance and Wind and Spirit seemed to convey a message. Sure enough the recurring answer was the names reflect the qualities needed to do the job. I soon return for a bit more cancer removal from my face so the names and answers resonated with me. Many boats are also named for the wives of lobster men such as Betty Lou and Sally. I asked one guy why there was a boat named Double Trouble in the harbor. Seems the captain had more than just a wife, hence the double part. With fuel becoming an added problem for these guys, expect those ugly but delicious creatures to rise in price. Perhaps I will name my Jeep, Gas Guzzler.

Whoppers from Eastport, Maine

We had every intention of continuing up the coast of New Brunswick and further till we caught a glimpse of Eastport, Maine from the boat. The town looked very appealing and I happened to remember that the only motel in town happened to also have a cottage next door for rent, pre- trip research pays. I called and the place was available for a great price. Lil and I crossed back to the US side to see what I got us into. We had a cozy waterfront cottage within a short walk of the downtown. It turned into the perfect place to see what a real lobster village in Maine is all about. At night I would walk short ways to Norton’s Pier and buy my daily lobsters. In the evening we would put on sweaters and watch the fog roll across the water till we were enveloped in the thick mist.

Dinners were perfect by candle light and the sound of the water a tonic after a busy spring travel schedule. I had forgotten that traveling isn’t just packing in as much as possible, meeting artists, lobstermen and locals filled the days. Eastport is pretty in a way that other better know towns in Maine are, but real. Cracks of a glorious past as a sardine capital and business center showed through. It was however a town that is trying to rebuild itself, attractive in its own way. There is a table at the WaCo Diner just down the street from our place where a liar’s table is reserved, just for fishermen and women. They tend to tell whoppers. I now have some whoppers of my own about Eastport, I swear they are true. Just ask anyone from Eastport, they will back me up.

Whales off St. Andrew, Canada

I have often wondered why it is called whale watching, whale hunting fits better. Lily and I awoke early to catch the boat and head out on the Bay of Fundy. Billons of gallons of sea water flows in and out of the bay twice daily and it has one of the world’s biggest tidal changes. In the summer it also is temp home to whales seeking food and plankton. The charming town of St. Andrew, Canada was still and quiet and lucky for us only nine passengers boarded for the hunt. With a success rate of 95% we knew we would see something and we did. Minke Whales danced around our boat snorting as they rose from the depths. A thrill to behold!

St Andrew, NB, Canada

St. Andrew, Canada is just across the bay from Maine and was built by Loyalists from the Revolution, not wanting to become Americans. Many houses were dismantled and taken to St. Andrew to be rebuilt in the grid that is today's town.

Bar Harbor Fog

It was a foggy morning here in Bar Harbor. The powerful engines of lobster boats out on the water could be heard but not seen. A steaming cup of coffee was a delight as I watched the fog swirl the coast. Today we head on back roads through Washington County and Down East Maine. At Calias we will cross the border to Canada and the town of St. Andrews.

Bar Harbor

After a great weekend with family in Canaan Maine we headed up the coast to Bar Harbor. The Bar Harbor Inn is a wonderful place to sit and chill. It is right on the water and the view fantastic.

Portland, a Bang Up July 4th in 1866

First stop on the coast was the city of Portland, Maine. I wanted to see how it changed since I wrote a piece for GN. I had to call in to Around the World Travel Radio anyway. While structurally the same, a bit of umph seems missing. Could be the economy or perhaps it is just me. I did learn a little something new that pertains to July 4th also. Love the little facts. On July 4 1866, Portland had a great fire that burned 1500 buildings down. The fire was started when a little boy threw a firecracker on a pile of wood shavings. At the time poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow said the remains of the city reminded him of the ruins of Pompeii. Hope a better fourth for everyone.

Coastal Bound, Points Unknown

A Corporate Type

It has been a long four years since the passing of my Dad but today much has been put to rest; I have become part of a corporation. More importantly I do not have to go to NYC again for fifteen days. In anticipation of leaving for Prince Edward Island I made a stop at a camera shop and bought a new telephoto lens for my Canon, since plans include several whale cruises and lighthouse visits. It was the first time in a long time that price wasn’t a concern. I am ready for jeans and tee shirts and a worn sweatshirt at night when the evening fog rolls to shore. Instead of huge glam hotels we will be looking for cozy weathered inns and lobsters in the rough. I am looking forward to the huge tidal changes of the Bay of Fundy and getting dirty and wet in the tidal pools. After a few months of difficult situations I really want to see my wife’s smiling face and share some laughs on a deck and over dinner, the night air punctuated with fog horn blasts. I might not be the typical corporate type, and for that I am truly grateful.

"Travel and Bargain" Splitting Company

The dollar is about to drop in value again against the euro. Those ten buck coffees that bummed me out this spring could soon be fifteen. Due to the rising inflation rate in Europe, the European Central Bank is planning on hiking a key interest rate this week. As one not versed in economics, I have to go by my cost of a cup of coffee meter. By far Warsaw, Poland gave me the best bang for a cup of joe. I got an email from good friend Nora Brossard who handles the European Travel Commission for Spring O’Brien with the Commission’s bulletin with tips for alternative art cities that are a bit cheaper. For example Linz, Esztergom and Ghent have art treasures well worth seeing. Let’s face it, it looks like the words “travel and bargain” will be splitting company for a while. I have gone so far as to rent a hybrid car for my trip up the coast of Maine and into Atlantic Canada, a chance to save some green while going green. Even the Loon is easily pacing the almighty (once) dollar. Check out Tim Leffel's blogs and books for other travel ideas.