Mc Donalds on the Road

By now it is a known fact that I am a shameless Travelers' Tales fan and for that I do not apologize. I can however give one more reason and that is Bill Fink's story, Reading Between the Arches. It is in the 2006 Best Travel Writing book. In the quest to do what many who travel do not do, Bill provides a look into the Golden Arches of Micky Dee's. Woe to those who admit scarfing down a Pig Mac while on the road. Bill not only admits it but his take is spot on. I took this picture while strolling the city of Opatija, Croatia this fall. I just gotta say that while I hate the placement, Mc Donalds is shrewd. Too shrewd in fact because living in the Hudson Valley we get amazing fresh produce and home made products. I cannot relate to a sign with a picture of a Pig Mac reminding me of home. I will admit though to using the rest facilities at more than one Mc Donalds on the road. Perhaps a picture of a clean restroom would have better reminded me!

Pee Power

It is a writer’s dream to complete their book and see it come to fruition. I came across a book recently via a visitor to this site turned me on to. That does not imply that it turned me on! It is called Pees on Earth and written by Ellen Jong and is inspired by pee. It seems that Ellen was at a party on Canal Street in NYC’s TriBeCa when because of a long bathroom line, peed on junked furniture on the sidewalk curb. Having a Yashica T4 she snapped a pic of what looked more, “like blood in a murder scene than pee”. She then captured the essence of pee all around the world. Getting Annie Sprinkle to interview was shear genius, Pee Power! All I have for inspiration is visiting top places as a writer in 78 countries, better pass me a beer!

The MS Finnmark

The Finnmark drops us off in Kirkenes, only 40 below! 

Deadliest Catch in Norway

Last night I watched a show on Discovery Channel called Deadliest Catch. It was an amazing look at the fisherman from Alaska that risk their lives in persuit of Snow and King Crabs. In 2004 the Alaskan boats caught more than$65 million worth of the prize of the sea. Here is a picture I took of a Norwegian crab dive. The catch was one tasty meal!

Middle East Visa Game

While checking out the NY Times Travel section on Sunday I noticed a very interesting question in the Q&A department. It pertained to traveling around the Middle East with an Israeli stamp in your passport. It does limit your ability to go to some countries such as Syria or Lebanon. Fortunately for me the Jordanians have no problem with it as I learned on my first trip there. I now know that I have two options in dealing with my filled up US Passport, instead of just getting pages added I may qualify for a second one. It costs $67 and is good for two years. However with a Jordanian stamp in it I still couldn’t cross over to Syria. Sounds like a possible board game to me!

Meeting at the GoNOMAD Cafe

Got my first latte yesterday at the GoNOMAD Cafe. Enjoyed the beautiful day driving up to S. Deefield for meeting with Max. The cafe looks great and it was nice to see people enjoying coffee and the computers. Love catching up with all the new things going on at GN. The sunlight fading made S. Deerfield look amazing, Spring has sprung!

Hudson River Sailing

Got the boat out from layers of tarp this weekend and am getting her ready for alot of water time this year. I got her to late to really head out on the Hudson last summer. If a boat is a hole you pour your money into you might as well use it! 

Caught by the NYC Post

Got this photo today from my old friends Robin and Lee Miller living down in the south now. The picture is of me many years ago on one of their visits to NYC. The headline is key as in those days I was a time bomb, always looking for a party. On this day we were heading to the World Trade Towers via subway. Check the Tom Cruise glasses and dark full head of hair. Love that old dear friends keep up via the blog! 

Jordanian Hospitality

And so it starts again--“you're going where”? Jordan is so misunderstood in this part of the world. It happens to be an outstanding destination, historical sites that surpass many better known and some of the friendliest people in the world. On the tourism board there is a press testimonial page that says it all. To a person writers such as Peter Greenberg, Ric Pender and Bryan Mealer all stress the hospitable people of Jordan. I was happy to see mine among them. "Why Jordan?", should translate into 'I want to go.'

GoNOMAD Intern Amanda Denz

I've got to share something I just read on Max’s blog about an intern we had at GoNOMAD because it truly is the stuff that makes me smile. Max started using interns a few years ago when we just started taking off at GoNOMAD. It was a surprise to me but as usual a great decision.

Sitting comfortably a few hours away in High Falls or many hours away in Madrid, I had very little office responsibility; at that point I had enough over the years. What started in a farmhouse in Vermont, moved to a basement in Mass. to an actual office has been a great trip. Better yet was reading about an intern that worked with us in the beginning getting a managing editor position with the San Francisco Medical Journal.She starts the job on Monday! The Journal could get no better than Amanda Denz. Now I am looking for an intern to help with spring cleaning and getting the sailboat ready, of course that’s just wishful thinking!

Kudos to the Jordan Tourism Board

Heading back to one of my favorite places in the world, Jordan on April 21. I have already started daydreaming about the incredible sites I will be revisiting. Exploring Petra and Jerash, bobbing in the Dead Sea and snorkeling in the Red Sea. The trip will also take in a lot of meetings with some high up in the government folks, possibly even the King and Queen.

The Jordan Tourism Board in the US has worked ceaselessly in building up tourism to Jordan and has achieved some phenomenal results. American tourism to Jordan increased 16% in 2005. Travel to Jordan from the US outpaced growth from all other markets such as Europe and Asia. Kudos to the team for outstanding efforts and to what I think is one of the best tourism boards going!

EU Bans 92 Airlines

Next time your passing through London and catching a flight to a far-flung African destination, make sure your airline isn’t one of the 92 banned from landing in the EU. According to Bloomberg.com the ban includes operators from Liberia, Guinea, Rwanda and Kazakhstan. The EU ban will affect 300 planes and will go into effect March 24th. Does this mean that Heathrow will be easier to navigate?

Travel Writing Travels On

I don’t know about others but I get jazzed hearing about other writer’s news and growth. It seems to be happening at a faster pace then I can ever recall. Some prime examples are Tim Leffel’s Perceptive Travel and his soon to be out book for Travelers’ Tales not to mention co-authoring a book called Hip Hop, Inc. Jen Leo’s Thong Also Rises is very cool and she is working on a new concept called viral marketing. Rolf Potts now has a column on Yahoo. World Hum keeps humming along and just gets better. Max’s new GoNOMAD Café in South Deerfield is a great undertaking. David Farley and Jessie Sholl’s new TT book on Prague has turned me into a fan of David’s writing.

We all have different styles, backgrounds and methods but we share a mistress, travel. I cruise all of their sites frequently because it motivates and stimulates. We all share a constant struggle of earning but keep moving ahead. I am finally getting back into some print work and loving it. I love that my column for the Lincoln Eagle can be anything I want and I think these folks should be shared with readers. I love my new outlets such as the Hartford Courant and Preview CT. This fifty year old feels twenty-five and is still loving adventures like jumping off the Macau Tower or hiking under the Northern Lights in Norway at 40 below. Thanks to them all for sharing their lives.

Writers Weekend in Ulster County

It is always nice to sit around with other writers and chat but it is even better when they stay for a weekend. We had two of my favorites do that this weekend. Marie Villari from the Syracuse Post – Standard and children’s writer Marge LeBlanc hung out and shared good times. Marie has been writing features for a long time and has a big following in New York. Marge also has hosted a TV cooking show for years in Maine. Both have great senses of humor and are a lot of laughs. They also happen to be life long friends literally from birth. Having them visit was great because it gave Lil and I a chance to show off the area and play visitor. There is nothing better than over eating and sharing ideas with other writers near a crackling fireplace.

Barking Dog in High Falls

 Wondered around with Marge, Marie and Lil in High Falls today, the sunny yet cool weather was perfect. We hiked the D&H Canal Locks. 

Writing a Travel Column

Besides my gig with GoNOMAD I have a new outlet with a newspaper, The Lincoln Eagle. Ancestors of the Brooklyn Daily Eagle, at one time a powerhouse NYC paper, publish the paper. I just got the first edition today with my new travel column in it. Best part is the freedom they have offered me; pick my own destinations, topics or anything travel that I want. I couldn’t ask for more!

I also had a piece run in the classy, Preview CT magazine that is found throughout Connecticut about a trip to Croatia. It was also in the Hartford Courant. My first love is GoNOMAD, but to have outlets in print and radio also is very satisfying. Its been a long but fun trip!

Che, British Air and Superman

  

Musical Bergen, Norway

 Say it loud and proud in Bergen 

Budget Travel Magazine, Spot On Again

Budget Travel magazine scores another direct hit with its take on America’s coolest small towns in the April 2006 issue. Three of the top ten are well within my cruising zone, the closest Hudson is a mere 45 minutes. Great Barrington is about an hour and Barnard about three from my door. It was in Great Barrington that we all met up to pick the last GoNOMAD Grant winner.

What was great was how right on the pieces were, current and informative. I like reading articles in magazines about places I know well. It gives me an indication of just how reliable the writers and magazines are. Budget Travel has always proved itself tops, I am just grateful that my favorite restaurant Mexican Radio wasn’t mentioned, hate waiting for a table.

Placing your Bottom on Northwest, Pick and Pay for Your Seat

Flying has become one of the frustrating parts of travel and it just gets worse. No peanuts or pretzels didn’t kill me but my first priority is under fire. It’s all about the seat and that’s the bottom line. No one in his or her right mind ever requests a middle seat it is a travel bummer. It is all about the aisle and the freedom to move and even better is aisle emergency exit row. No longer is luck enough in securing seat nirvana. Cold hard cash is a key factor.

Northwest, the nations fourth largest carrier is tacking on $15 to secure certain exit row and aisle seats. I used to get first class envy passing the first class passengers, now I will feel envy even in economy class. Wonder if Northwest has envy over those airlines not running under bankruptcy protection?

Travelers Tales from Prague

While onboard the MS Finnmark I had plenty of time to read, the only problem was tracking down my copy of Travelers Tales, Prague and the Czech Republic. It got passed around for all to read. I finally got my copy back on the return flight from Stockholm. The well-crafted stories edited by David Farley and Jessie Stoll certainly helped the eight-hour trip pass by.

The book features stories from writers such as Mary Morris, Myla Goldberg, Brad Wetzler and Robert Glick. One of my favorites was a story by Farley himself. It was called, Natural Born Pig Killers and just fantastic. It was originally published in Citizen Culture and won a Lowell Thomas Award. To read an interview with the editors head over to Worldhum.com.

Mozart's Birthday, 250 Years Old

As I am working on my Norway piece for GoNOMAD in my office I have Mozart playing in the background. Smooth and relaxing and ageless, all from a guy born 250 years ago. This year is Mozart’s year in Austria and celebrations will be going on all year. I wasn’t always a classical music fan, more Greatful Dead in college than Bach but I have really started to appreciate the sound.

I picked up the book Mozart’s Women: His Family, His Friends, and His Music this weekend. Just began it but I am already loving the words and story by Jane Glover. NPR also has a great site on the man. I have to wonder who will be celebrated 250 years from today that is currently crafting tunes.

The Berlitz Way

While trolling through the Barnes & Nobles budget section today I came up with gold, the book Around the World in 80 Words by Charles Berlitz. The book covers 80 key words in 25 different languages. Thank you and please will take you far in any language and knowing it in 25 ways will make you a super traveler. Toilet, airport and to expensive all figure in the top 80. Every country has a short beginning that explains pronunciation rules that along with the phonetic spelling that really helps those with a tongue that twists in the wind. Asante, Mr. Berlitz.

Oslo's Best Dining

If an army marches on its stomach the same can be said about a pack of travel writers. Norway did us right, two great places filled with fine food and atmosphere all in one day. Lunch was at Pascal, located in the Nobel Peace Center. Rare is a café that offers a lunch menu with all winning items. It is just as rare that six travel writers will agree on anything, much less food. Don’t miss the Peace Center itself, which was also six thumbs up!

Dinner was at Theatercafeen and just bursting with atmosphere of the classical European style. This place is on the New York Times, top ten cafes in the world and number one on my list. It was packed and lively yet service steady and professional. The view from the table of the National Theater in falling snow was a mega travel memory. Norway gets six double thumbs up!

International Womens Day Parade in Oslo

  

Capa at Nobel Peace Center

 Robert Capa is one of my favorite photographers of all time. I happened to catch his exhibit at the Nobel Peace Center in Oslo. I can think of no better way to show the horror of war than by showing Capa's images. Very powerful stuff! 

The Very Top of Europe

  

Oslo Vip Pass

For my last day in Norway I am armed with a VIP Oslo Pass that will allow me entry in to just about anywhere in the city. Even better is the fact that I will actually get to use it we have a free afternoon. Harald Hansen of PR Innovation Norway US has done a wonderful job in planning and guiding this trip. Just as important as the group events is the freedom and time for us to go out on our own. He was masterful at providing the time to do that. Press trips can be so overloaded sometimes that your focus can get fuzzy. After our morning city tour I plan to take my card out to the National Gallery to see some Evard Munch works. I could just Scream with pleasure!

Don't Pack the Politics

I heard a very wise bartender say something last night that I have wanted to say for a while. I went to a place called Winston Churchill in Oslo with another writer for a pint. In the quest for understanding Norway better he is a master at asking questions and this time politics was the subject, specifically what do you think about Bush? Our bartender soon countered with, “Who is our Prime Minister”? Of course we didn’t have a clue but the point was clear the whole world doesn’t revolve around the US.

Northern Lights Wave Good Bye

As I arrived in Oslo, I marveled at the 30-degree temperature after spending last night in temps hovering at about 40 below. Thought the air was cold the people of Kirkenes were extremely warm. While dinning on reindeer the Northern Lights shimmered above as almost a wave farewell. The Sami people told us stories and the dogs pulling sleights outside yelped.

The Sami used to be called Laplanders but did not like it. Sami is the name. The fireplace roared and we feasted. This was after a day of snowmobile riding on a frozen fjord and catching the delicious Red King Crab. Just another day at the office!

Snowmobiling In Northland Norway

 The wind chill reaches 70 below when snowmobiling! 

The Finnmark Arrives in Finnmark Norway

 The salt water can freeze up here in Finnmark Norway! 

Diving for King Crab at 35 Below

  

Arctic Circle

We recieved our certificates for crossing the Arctic Circle last night. It was quite an event. Though an imaginary man made line it is really felt. The temp seem colder and the sights sharper and stark. There are some hearty souls living in places like Hammerfest and Tromso. Tromso is a very pretty city and is called the Paris of the North. The university there is large and active and bars and pubs abound. Best stop though was the Arctic Visitor Center.

Today I will be at the very top of Europe at Nordkapp only 2053 kilometers from the pole. The cliff is said to be huge at the Cape and should be an experience. After that we are headed to Kirkenes and the border with Russia. Fun fact, the city lies as far east as Istanbul because of the Earths curve.

The Ice Bar Cometh

The Finnmark glided into the Port of Svolvaer just as dinner ended and it was perfect timing. With one hour on shore choices need to be made quickly, no problem in Svolvaer at 10PM. The Magic Ice Bar is just on the pier and very handy. We walked in got got a big chill, of the solid ice kind. The bar is made of ice as are the glasses. Sculptors from different parts of the world come and work their magic at the Magic. Drinking with an ice troll was quite interesting, no small talk and a cheap date! All to soon we walked back to the ship through falling snow. We then meet at the ship lounge to drink in warmth and watch Svolaer fade.

As I lay in bed that night I was thinking of ways to describe this trip. It is like taking a cruise through the heart of the Alps just will not do. How to put into words that the snow has so many levels and hues and the blue sky bursts with clarity will do for now. Tonight after dinner it will be my job to do it better.

Bodo with Max

While waiting for the boat to dock in Bodo today my new buddy writer, Peter Mandel and I decided to have lunch with an elderly German man named Max. This was his fifth voyage up the Norwegian Coast. He likes the stark clean vistas of water and snow capped peaks. I have to agree. He also thinks there are to many Germans on the ship. He looks some what reflective and lonely. I wonder about him and his life and why is he alone. I cannot help but wonder why Max is alone and what became of the envolope factory he owned in Hanburg. I was very glad to have lunch with Max!

Alesund Norway

The Arctic night falls with an icy blue tinge, cold, clear and beautiful. The North Sea darkens and stars gather here on the coast of Norway. Today we stopped in Alesund a very pretty town. In 1904 it burned totally down and was rebuilt in the Art Nouveau style. Just fabulous to explore. German buckers from WWII are located in the hills above the town adding another historical layer. We cross the circle in the morning. Button up!

Norway Ideal!

The massive snow capped peaks combined with the cold sea is just inspiring. I ended up in a suite on the ship Finnmark that has all I could ever want. The fishing villages that pop up are fantastic and the people very friendly. This trip has so far surpassed my wishes. Only problem is the computer connection slow and slower. Will try to keep you updated.